Climbs - New Routes - Wonderland

Wonderland New Routes

more photos coming soon

New Routes Added 28 August 2006

Shu Pou 5.7 A1 *: This very,very steep aid climb is out on the huge overhanging wave-like face of the big boulder just north of Parapsychology Dome (Telekinesis). This route faces south, and starts with a long bolt ladder, as the climb turns the roof, there is another bolt, a fixed copperhead, then free climb on jugs and plates to the top. Rap from the summit.
Tits on a Bull 5.11-**: This route goes up a buttress on the south (left) side of the wash going out to the Wonderland. This route is mostly protected by bolts, but take some gear, especially at the start. The buttress is before Ash Gordon, and Star Wars Rock, and is the first large buttress on the left. Anchor on top.
Brett's TR 5.10c *: Climb the face left of Gandy (Mongolia Area n. Wonderland) on Horn Tower.
The Teabag 5.10b**: Excellent face route on a formation just behind Nomad Dome. Located right of the climb Mesopotamia. 5 bolts Anchor is sling on horns. Faces East.
Red, White, and Boys 5.9*: 4 bolts to anchor. The route can be seen from Uncle Willies. Look for a brown face NE of Uncle Willies. Hike 5 minutes up a wash from Uncle Willies to this So. facing route.
Liver Brothers 5.8: 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on a big boulder in front of the Grey Giant. The boulder lies in the wash.
Welfare Mothers, Drugs, and Speed. 5.8: Crack to face (2 bolts) to 2 bolt anchor. Located on fromation just left of Laugh Rock
Cactus Challenge 5.8/5.9 *: Bolted face on the right side of Super Slab (2 bolt anchor)
Andre the Giant 5.6*: 180' face climb on Tombstone , right of Turtle Days. 4 bolts to rap station (slings on large block).

Greatest Love Songs Ever Written Crag

Vogel P64; Bartlett Wonderland P41

Greatest Love

This previously unreported Crag is in a very out-of-the-way spot. It is located in the North Wonderland and is seen on the right when you approach the New York Dome from the Boy Scout Trail. When the Boy Scout Trail and the Willow Hole Trail split, take the Boy Scout Trail; You will see cliffs on your right ( This is where Maisy, Fuzz Bumper, etc. are..) As this cliffband heads east, this is where The Greatest Love Songs Ever Written Crag is located. The Crag faces north and there are two climbs on it. The left route (Air Supply 5.7) follows a crack and the right route ( Barry Manilow 5.10-*) follows a cool right focing /arching corner and has a fixed pin and a few bolts. If you want solitude; this is the place for you.

Super Slab (N. Wonderland): Willow Hole

Vogel (picture p. 68, map p.64); Bartlett Wonderland P46

The 3 new routes are located on the Super slab, right of Coyote Corner (5.6), which is on the far left of the slab. The Super Slab is just past Willow Hole, and is the big slab on the right as you approach the Super Dome from Willow Hole. The climbs are fun, fairly well-protected, and the area is worth a visit. The hike out is long but interesting, the area is isolated and has a wilderness feel. The crag is sunny and warm in winter.

Coyote Corner, 5.9

Bartlett Wonderland p. 46

Seam

(unclimbed)

Dimpled Chad, 5.10c*

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Mike Hunt, 5.9+**

3 bolts, 3 FP to 2 bolt anchor

Keep the Worm Firm, 5.7*

crack to 3 bolts 2 bolt anchor

Mistaken Rock

Bartlett Wonderland p. 32

*Ben's Magic Weenie, 5.10-

located between Blame it on Cain (5.8) and Correct Me if I'm Wrong, 5.6 4 bolts

Pernicious Dome

Bartlett Wonderland p. 28; Vogel p. 58

Gourmet Sausage, 5.7*

This is the thin Pillar right of Tailgunner (5.11b) 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor/rap

Flexable Rock

Bartlett Wonderland p. 122; Vogel p. 329

Eastern Blockhead, 5.10b

4 bolt face on the E fast of Flexable Rock

North Wonderland Mongolia Area

; Bartlett Wonderland p.33This cliff is located just right of the climbs in Bartlett's Wonderland Guide. Presently there are 4 routes on this cliff

Fuzz Bumper

Fuzz Bumper, 5.10-*

This climb is located off to the right on the Boy Scout Trail about a half mile after the Willow Hole Trail split. The climb faces North and is fairly obvious. There might be a bolt and piton on it down low; the top part is an obvious crack.

310 lb. Rosie Collapes, 5.7

slanting crack on left side of formation

Glass Onion, 5.10b*

6 bolts

Hollywood Diet Disaster, 5.8 R

1 bolt

Pregnant Missing Woman, 5.5

crack on far right side

Bolted Route

between 310 lb. Rose and Glass Onion 5.10/b/c

Abbey the Scabby Tabby, 5.10 b/c*

5 bolts (left of the two bolted routes) Left of Glass Onion

Wonderland

God Loves Nurses, 5.10b*

2 pitch route, 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor Hand crack, OW, face. Route faces East. Formation located between N. Astrodome and Moonstone. see map Vogel p. 296 Belay in crack before the bolted traverse.

North Wonderland

Too Secret to Find Area These two climbs are on the right side of Too Secret to Find Area Vogel p. 50, 51; Bartlett Wonderland p. 20, 21

Ass Gasket, 5.10-*

bolts and fixed pins

Iranian Party Hat, 5.6

Dog leg splitter on left side Rappel anchor (slings) at top.

Wonderland North

El Dorado Vogel p. 56; Bartlett Wonderland p. 27

Frank Shorter, 5.9

This is the chimney left of Wide World of Sports

South Astrodome Area

Bartlett p. 71; Vogel p. 289

Let's Fuck the Crack Whore, 5.10-*

Crack Hore

This climb is located about 200 yards left of Hex marks the Poot (South of the E face of the South Astrodome.) Thin crack leads to face protected by 3 bolts.

Three Little Pigs Area

Pork Circus, 5.4*

Bartlett Wonderland p. 35

This climb is located just right of the climb called First Little Pig (5.3) This is a 2 bolt face climb

Wonderland of Rocks Area

Timber, 5.8*

Vogel p. 310; Bartlett Wonderland p. 96

Timber

This novel route climbs up a tree, then hops onto a very large boulder, 3 bolts to the top. (2 bolts anchor) located across from the climbs Ground Ron and Feeding Frenzy. Those climbs are all behind the Disneyland Dome.

TimberWolf ** 5.9+

Vogel p. 310 Bartlett p. 96

Located on a big old boulder, behind Disneyland Dome and in the same area as Ground Ron (5.10c). The original climb Timber (5.8+ *) climbs a tree for about 20 some feet, then pops onto a face and climbs 3 bolts to the top (2 bolt anchor).. Timber Wolf climbs the tree, climbs up to the 2nd bolt on Timber, then traverses on a dike left , past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt lower off anchor on the right edge of the boulder.

No Glove, No Love, 5.10b*

Vogel p. 308; Bartlett Wonderland p. 95

On Middle tower, right of Disneyland Dome between Life without Principle and Whales on Ice 2 bolt No Glove

Boogers on a Lampshade 5.10b PG

Vogel p. 307; Bartlett Wonderland p. 88 Boogers

There are 2 new climbs on the Red Obelisk. Left of the original route is a 5.11+/5.12- arete and right is the 5.10+/5.11- route that goes in the big holes. The controversial routes were put up by visiting Europeans and I heard they were chopped. I went to investigate and the bolts were in place. Please leave these bolts in place as chopping bolts is very destructive to the rock.

Eye of Horus 5.7 or 5.10d

Bartlett Wonderland p. 84; Vogel p. 304

This is the obvious west facing splitter that you see as you look east from the main Wonderland wash just before suprise rock. The direct is 10d or sneak in from the right at 5.7. Eye of Horus

This 3 climbs are located on a cliff left of Bank Note Blues near the Too Secret to Find Area. They are easily seen from the N. Wonderland trail, just as it makes the Sharp turn North (before Ellesmere). Vogel p. 50; Bartlett Wonderland p. 20

The Booger Man, 5.10-**

right route 4 bolts (2 bolt anchor)

Woman in Peril, 5.9+**

Middle route 4 bolts (2 bolt anchor)

Finger in a Blender, 5.9+**

left route 4 bolts (same anchor as "B") QD's only

Dihedron

Dihedron, 5.14a PG***

Bartlett Wonderland p. 90; Vogel p. 307

This climb is located on the left side of the Pee Brain and is one of JT's hardest routes. I don't think it's had a second ascent and is on e of the few climbs rated 5.14 that doesn't have any bolts.

Hooter Rock (North Wonderland)

Bartlett Wonderland p. 37; Vogel p. 67 These 4 routes are located on the S.W. side of the rock, to the left of The Fake Foot (5.6 P6/R)

Buck, 5.8*

This is the crack left of the start of The Fake Foot (5.6) 2 FP (3 bolt anchor)

Cora-door, 5.10b/c (T.R.)

crack/dihedral between Blitzo crack and Buck

Blitzo Crack, 5.10a**

obvious crack with 2 bolts at the top of crack protecting face climbing. (3 bolt anchor)

Reverend Blitzo's Hairless Boys Choir, 5.8*

bolted face left of Blitzo crack (3 bolt anchor)

All of these climbs go to the same 3 bolt anchor, which is the belay for pitch one of The Fake Foot Route (5.6). The best route on the face is the excellent Blitzo Crack.

Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee, in September * 5.9

Vogel p. 307 Bartlett Wonderland p. 95,96 Oh Frenchie

Located on a Spire north of the Red Obelisk and Dihedron. 7 bolts, 1 FP. Faces South. Located just left of the entrance to Mother Butler Corridor. Rap anchors on top. (unfortunately this route has been chopped, another sad day for climbing)

The Beating Heart * 5.9 (left start), 5.10- (right start)

Vogel p. 296-297 Bartlett Wonderland p. 81

This climb is located on the left side of the Moonstone formation. It ends at a 2-bolt belay, under the large roof. Some bolts, fp, and trad gear.

Flamming Doobries 5.9+

Vogel p. 58 Bartlett p. 28-30

This climb is located on a separate formation NW of Pernicious Dome. The route faces SW.

Lil Climber Chick 5.10c*

Vogel p. 64 Bartlett Wonderland p. 41 Lil Climber Chick

This formation is further east of Greatest Love Songs Ever Written Crag. From this crag, you can look due north and see the New York Dome. There are 2 routes on the face. Both are cool and both are around 5.10c . Both have some bolts and need some trad gear. The climbs share the same finish and end at a 2 bolt anchor. These climbs are about 90' long. The right route is Lil' Climber Chick 5.10c* and the left route is Yvonne 5.10c*.

Maisy 5.7+*

Maisy is near the Fuzz Bumper. It is a smallish dark Tower and the most prominant formation in the area. Some bolts and some gear. Some loose rock too. There was a " fixed stopper" and a bolt at the anchor, but I believe the stopper is now gone..(guess it wasn't "fixed".). After the Boy Scout Trail / Willow Hole trail split, just follow the Boy Scout Trail for 5-10 min. and you'll see Maisy to the right (east). The climb faces west. Maisy

Moosebaby 5.10c

Vogel p. 282 Bartlett Wonderland p. 65

This climb goes past some horizontals, then 3 bolts up flakey rock to the top. Moose Baby