Pinto Basin - Split Rocks - New Routes

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Split Rocks Area

The Potato Gun *, 5.10+

Potato Gun

3 bolts up a block. This climb is very close to the Split Rocks Parking area (SE of Over-bolted Rock. The formation (The Tiki looks like a Tiki). The route is on the NW face.

 

 

 

 

Bumpy *, 5.8+/5.9

Bumpy

This is the original "Bumpy" route. It is located just right of Overbolted Rock. It is easily seen from Split Rocks parking (look right). Follow "bumps" past 4 bolts (or fixed angles in holes, to a 2 bolt anchor). Walk off to the right, down a ramp in a chimney.)

 

 

 

 

 

Gynogroove , 5.6

Chimney left of Bumpy.

Nuptial Sac , 5.10+5.11-

This gritty route climbs steep bumps, a carcak and a very gritty face past bolts to a fixed anchor. One cam needed in the crack. This climb is located right of Bite Me (see Bartlett p. 50 and faces away from the parking lot.

Sabina , 5.8+

This is the crack climb on a boulder just So. of Butt Nugget 2000. It has one bolt and a rap anchor.

Butt Nugget 2000 *, 5.10b

Climb up a flake past 6 bolts to a bolted anchor. This is located on the pointed tower on the right just before Brits Corridor. Just right off the trail.

Like it or Lumb It , 5.10-

Up a wide crack (past a big black knob), up a crack/ramp, to 2 bolts on a steep face. The formation(The Lump, is on the right as you approach Isles in the Sky. (Rubicon is to the Left). It is the obvious formation with the "window" as seen from the parking lot. 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Lucus Polucus*, 5.7

This climb now has 5 bolts, and the bottom section is no longer runout. The new bolt was added by the first ascent party. This climb is on a tower-like formation in the next canyon past (south of Brits Corridor.) The route is obvious and faces south. Rap off the back from anchors on top.

Son of Bumpy, 5.7, Bumpy's Cousin, 5.7

Both climbs go up a series of unusual "bumps". Both go to the same anchor (2 drilled anchors), and both are protected by 3 drilled angles each. Son of Bumpy is the left one. QD's only. Routes face away from the parking lot. They are on the "backside " of a formation. This formation can be found by going to the right when you reach the big open area in front of Isles in the Sky. Look to the right, and you'll see a while formation with a circular while dike on it's top. It's on the backside of this and approached from the left.

Pinkie and the Brain** , 5.8+

This much talked about climb is written up in Bartlett's Pinto Basin guide as George's TR , 5.10. It is now a lead climb, and takes a slightly different (and easier line than George's TR., going left for the top section. This is a fun and well-protected climb. 8 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. QD's only. I like this climb alot although some people find the loose plates irritating.

 

 

 

 

 

Dead Bees** , 5.9+

has been retro-bolted (by the first ascent team) and is no longer R/X. It is now safe and an excellent lead.

Celebrated Beast * , 5.8

This is the arete left of Dolphin. 1 fp, 3 bolts.