Lost Horse New Routes 

return to newroutes...

photos coming soon

new sept 06
The Da Vinci Code 5.10c*
1 bolt, 1 fixed beak, leads to a slot (crux) and a 2 bolt anchor. Far left side of Brian's Crag
Sharon Stone 5.10-
This climb is located on the boulders on top of the rise above the Hound Rocks, and up and right of White Cliffs of Dover. The climb faces west and has a few bolts at the start. 2 bolt anchor. The formation cannot be see from the road. There are also two other climbs that we saw up there.....an obvious west facing corner which was 5.9 and had 2 bolts at the top, and on the top of the hill, a difficult looking face climb with 2 bolts.
Fah-Q 5.10c
T R on far right side of Brian's Crag. Starts in shallow left facing corner

Dairy Queen Area

Vogel. p.131 Bartlett Lost Horse p.42

Foot Massage*, 5.10b

4 bolt face to crack. Right of Blizzard

** Norm, 5.9+

face/arete left of Leap Erikson 4 bolts, 1 fp. (2 bolt anchors)

** Leap Erikson, 5.10b<

bolted face, no longer a top rope

'Possum Pie, 5.8

Located down and left of "I forgot to Have Babies". Crack climb on a small buttress on the approach to Dairy Queen Wall

Candlestein Pass

Vogel P. 123; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 77

Karlis' crack, 5.8

so. facing crack in canyon before entering Candlestein Pass main wash 1 fp.

Overbite, 5.7

Gritty Crack (backside of Karlis crack)

Candlestein Pass Area

* Karlis' White Ass, 5.10-

4 bolt face climb on white face. Right side of main approach canyon to Candlestein Pass.

Vogel P. 123; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 77-79

Candlestein Pass

* A Dog in Heat is Hard to Beat, 5.10b

Crack on west face of formation. Formation located on right as you enter main wash of Candlestein Pass. Overhanging hard crack.

Vogel P. 123; Bartlett P. 77-79

Candlestein Pass Laurels' Nose

Incredible Shrinking Nose, 5.7

Crack on front face of spare, located left of 13 Year Old Death Trap. 2 bolt anchors. Tower is Laurel's Nose.

Nose Goblin, 5.7

Hard crack to face on left side of tower.

Vogel P. 123; Bartlett Lost Horse P.77-79

(PICTURE)

Candlestein Pass Area

*Puto de Yo Yo, 5.10-

Face/crack on red tower on right side of canyon to Candlestein Pass 1 bolt, 3 fp, 2 bolt belay anchor. The red tower is called "The Puto."

Vogel P.123; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 77-79

Vagmarken

Caw, Caw, 5.6

crack to roof right of Thin Spin (unknown crack 5.8)

Bartlett Lost Horse P. 14

)

Vogel P. 29; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 14

Cockroach Crag Area

* Mile Fink,

- located left of Dungeon 1 bolt (far left route)

* I-Go-Go-E, 5.8

2 bolts on Dike left of Dungeon

* Dungeon, 5.9+

Vogel P. 109; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 69

Lizards Landing

John's Ginger Tuftis, 5.10a.

5 bolts located right of Maxwell Grusnster (5.10a)

Vogel P. 24 (right of #3 in picture); Bartlett Lost Horse p. 10

Mino Provoz, 5.9

crack below Lizards landing

Vogel P. 25; Bartlett P. 24

Ken Black Memorial Dome

Powdered Toast Man, 5.10a

Bartlett P. 37; Vogel P. 94

Located near of Fryer Flyer (Ken Black Memorial Done) one bolt, trad pro.

Kramer Route, 5.8?

2 bolt route on left side of buttress of Chicken Mechanics?

Blackout, 5.10+

located of small buttress left of Blackjack

** Black Jack, 5.10d

Blackjack

Atlantis Area

Sparky, 5.10-

Bartlett P. 64; Vogel P. 105

SparkyThis route climbs a small crack to 3 bolts on a small slab on the first rocks you come to on the left as you walk towards the Atlantis area. This is a very tiny climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Atlantis Area

* Santa's Magic Lap, 5.9

This is a hard crack on the left side of the slab. It is left around the corner from Hot Buttered Elves.

Hot Buttered Elves, 5.10+

This is a seam with 1 bolt and 1 fp which leads to a wide crack. It is easily seen directly across from Atlantis crag. * The Backdoor Santa, 5.7 This is a face climb w/3 bolts on the right side of the formation.

Grab my sac for a toy, 5.8

crack over a small roof. Left of Backdoor Santa. These four climbs are directly across from the main Atlantis area. They get sun in the afternoon and if Atlantis is crowded, you can check these out

Swidgeteria

* Gordo Started It, 5.10+

Bartlett Hidden Valley P. 53) Vogel P. 137

This is now a safe lead. 3 bolts (2 bolts added)

Hemmingway Area

Bartlett Lost Horse P.46; Vogel P.

*Bullworker, 5.11-

This is located right of the Importance of Being Earnest (5.10a). It is the left of 2 new routes both which have the same start. Stick clip the 1st bolt

* Hernie, Hernie, Hernie, 5.8

Up a fin left of Funky Dung, pull roof, the out face (1 bolt) up cracks above the big roof.

Freeway Wall (West Face)

* Thigh Master, 5.8

bolted slab on small pillar between Smooth as Silk (5.7) and Stop Trundling (5.9+) Rappel from Smooth as Silk anchor.

Bartlett P. 53; Vogel P. 95

Atlantis Area

* Burkulator, 5.10a

Burkulator

Bartlett Lost Horse P. 64; Vogel P. 105

This climb is located on a small tower just past Atlantis area. Instead of turning back left to reach Atlantis, look right. The climb is on the west face and can be seen from the Atlantis approach. 1 fp and 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

 

 

 

Bush Dome

Chestwig ,5.10a

* Lean on Me, 5.10a

Kate's Bush, 5.8

Raccoon Crack, 5.8

crack right of Kate's bush

Vogel P. 90; Bartlett Lost Horse P. 33

Negropolis Area

Vogel p. 26,27 Bartlett Lost Horse p. 12

Metal Highway, 5.8

Chimney, crack, face. Located right of "I Fall, Therefore I Am" 2 bolts, 1 FP

Sha Nay Nay, 5.5

Cracks on the Buttress on the far left side of the Negropolis hillside/mound

White Cliffs of Dover

Vogel p. 38,39 Bartlett Lost Horse p.21

*Chicken Run, 5.7

Bolted climb on the far right side of the White Cliffs of Dover Ridge.

*Karosh's Wedding Crack, 5.9+

Far ,far right side of the White Cliffs of Dover Climbs, right and around the corner from Chicken Run. This climb faces North (towards town). Vogel p.133 Bartlett Lost Horse p. 38

*Gettysburger, 5.10b

A huge block fell off this climb, and the route has been re-routed, now climbing up past another bolt and then traversing right into the crack. The lower copperhead/fixed pin has been replaced by a bolt. There is a chain anchor to get off.Gettysburger