Indian Cove

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New Routes added 28 August 2006

McStain 5.8*
3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Quick Draws only Campfire Crag So. Face Located just left of the route Picnic.
Nic Traverse 5.8 **
This 9 bolt climb is up Rattlesnake Canyon at the Stealth Pillar Area. Start just behind the Stealth Pillar at a tree, and go up and right past 9 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The route follows a white dike.
Dig for Fire 5.8**
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor Stealth Pillar area. On a N. Facing wall right of the Stealth Pillar.
Monkey Gone to Heaven 5.8*
3 bolts (some gear) to 2 bolt anchor. Nic Traverse joins this climb for the last 2 bolts. Located on wall just left of Stealth Pillar. Goes up a fat white dike at the start.
Kentucky Waterfall A2+**
This route is located on a formation west of the end loop past Moosedog Tower. Hike west for about 10 minutes in the wash and look up and south. This cool aid climb traverses left to right under a huge roof. Take 5 or 6 RURPs or copperheads. There are 2 fixed pins, and one fixed stopper. Rap Station at the end of the traverse.
Erotic Driving 5.11-
This interesting route takes a line up a large wall, just left of Kentucky Waterfall. Follow bolts up a featured face until a hand crack is reached. The final moves surmount a summit cap by an O W crack. Anchor on top. This climb is mostly 5.10- , with one 5.11 move, past a bolt. From the end loop past Moosedog, hike about 10 min. and look up and south. Erotic Driving goes up the face just left of the huge roof.
Jimmy Biggerstaff 5.10b*
Located about 1/2 mile east of the end loop past Moosedog. Walk for about 1/2 hour to obvious largest dark buttress, seen as you approach. The climb goes past a few bolts, then up cracks to a sling anchor on a tied off section of rock. The climb faces North.
These next four climbs are located at the crags behind the hospital in Joshua Tree. The are located in the Joshua Tree Nation Park. I will try to get photos up soon. (some year).
Gordon Branch 5.10-*
crack
All in the Family 5.10 b/c **
Hands over a roof to bolted face 2 bolt anchor
Early Retirement 5.8*
bolts on a slab buttress to 2 bolt anchor
Burkuleese 5.8
crack , located to the left of Early Retirement
Guam 5.9
This climb can be seen from the 29 Palms Highway, about 1 mile E. of the town of Joshua Tree. Look for a diamond shaped spire on the hillside. 3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
Unknown 5.8*
Far right side of Indian Palasides Corridor 3 bolts up a waterchute (Use anchor for climbs that are to the left)
Mother of All Spires 5.9 *
Possibly the longest approach to any climb in the Park Start at the 49 Palms Oasis Parking lot and hike for 2-3 hours. 60-70 " Spire Crack/flake to the top. 2 bolts on top. This spire can be seen from the highway; look way up and to the south as you drive toward 29 Palms about a few minutes past the Indian Cove road. It looks like a black finger way up on the hillside.
Fubar 5.7 *
Climbs a dike on the E. Face of the largest formation west of Indian Cove Group Camp Ground Road. Route faces east. As you hike west, this formation is the large formation to the NW, a few bolts at the start, some natural gear, to a 2 bolt anchor.
Sweeny 5.7
Climb a crack to 1 or 2 bolts on a face (2 bolt anchor) This is on Hodgepodge Rock, South Face, up and right of the routes in the Guide.
STFU n00b 5.4
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a bumpy featured face. Left side of Kramer Corner area.
Girl Power 5.0
Baby Steps 5.0
These two bolted climbs are on a very low agle slab behind the Iceberg Boulder. Bolts on top of slab.
Iceberg New Routes Louie's New Routes Cold Fusion 5.13a, Cold Shoulders 5.11c, Deception 5.12c, Hot Tamale 5.13b, Icebreaker 5.12d

Val de mellow, 5.10+

Vogel, P531; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P43

This is not a new route, but it does have new 3/8 bolts, plus the first ascent party has later added a bolt at the bottom to keep you off the deck. Also, now a 3 bolt anchor on top.

 


Val de Mellow

Vertical Corrector, 
5.11a *

Vogel, P523; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P53

Find this route on Center Crag.  This four bolt line is not new, but the poor 5/16 bolts have been replaced. There is now an anchor on top as well. 


Vertical Corrector

El Chivo
El Chivo 

El Chivo, 5.8

Vogel, P531;
Bartlett (Indian Cove), P43

New bolted line left of White Trash. 4 bolts to 3 bolt anchor. 

 

Blow
Blow
 

Blow, 5.10+

Vogel, P530; Bartlett(Indian Cove), P42  

This is the 4 bolt climb on a small formation left of Billboard Buttress. 3 bolt anchor on top.

A. Feminine Itch, 5.7

Vogel, P517; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P25

This is a crack to a 2 bolt face with a 2 bolt rap anchor. It is located left of Kundalini Linguini Weenie (5.8+) and right of Lunch (5.6). Bartlett's Indian Cove Y2K reprint incorrectly states Feminine Itch is on Jaime's Rock, when in fact, the new route on Jaime's Rock is called Jaime Manuever (5.8).

B. * Kundalini-linguini-weenie, 5.8

This route now has a belay/rap anchor.

C. Cold Carnitas, 5.10+
D. Leftovers, 5.9 

These routes were done a number of years ago (around 1992) by Tom Beck and Steve Parker.  They are up high on the formation, sort of difficult to get to and have weird moves, funky bolt placements and some suspect rock. They aren't very popular.  Each has 4 bolts.

Feminine Itch
Feminine Itch, et al.
South Face Campfire Crag

Jelly on Springs  
Jelly on Springs,
Wall of Absurdities Area 

I Pee in Pools
I Pee in Pools, 
The Pool Formatio

* Jelly on Springs, 5.8

Vogel, P510;
Bartlett (Indian Cove), P17

This route is located just right of Back from Retirement (5.7). There are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. QDs only. 

I Pee in Pools, 5.10b/c

Vogel, P538; Bartlett(Indian Cove), P57  

Up and left of Ancient Kingdom, on the hillside across from the Short Wall, is a large formation. Left of Center is a pillar/spire. this climb ascends the face of this pillar via lie-backs up a wide flake system. 3 bolts protect the liebacking crux. 2 pitches. Rappel from slings on the left side of the pillar below the top.

Dry Lake 
Dry Lake 

Dirty Pinch
Dirty Pinch, 
Johnson Canyon Area

* Dry Lake, 5.10

Vogel, P535;
Bartlett (Indian Cove), P49

This is not a new route. It originally had a fixed pin, but the pin disappeared. There is now a bolt where the piton was. 

Dirty Pinch, 5.11

Vogel, P538; Bartlett(Indian Cove), P57  

1 FP to a 2 bolt anchor. This climb is on the large split boulder which contains Chute the Moon (5.6) and faces the road.

Monaco Monaco,
Feudal Wall 

** Monaco, 5.1b

Vogel, P534-535;
Bartlett (Indian Cove), P46-49

1 bolt added at top by 1st ascent party. 

* Paper or Plastic, 5.10-

Vogel, P534-5; Bartlett(Indian Cove), P46-49

3 bolts.

 

Paper or Plastic
Paper or Plastic, 
Feudal Wall

Burning Man
Burning Man,
Feudal Wall 

Cloth Ears
Cloth Ears,
Feudal Wall

Cloth Ears, 5.9

Vogel, P534-5; Bartlett(Indian Cove), P46-49

1 bolt.

Burning Man, 5.10+

Vogel, P534-5;
Bartlett (Indian Cove), P46-49

This climb goes up left of Castle's Burning. 

Dogmoose Tower, 5.10b PG

Vogel, P522; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P36 and Y2K

This is a face climb on a small tower right of Moose Dog Tower. South facing and suspect bolts.

DogMoose
Dogmoose Tower

Fluff Boy
Fluff Boy,
Short Wall

Fluff Boy, 5.8

Vogel, P536; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P51

This climb orginally had a fixed pin that has been replaces with a bolt. There is also an anchor on top of the formation now.

Kutoomba
Kutoomba

Helga and Sven
She Is Helga, I Am Sven

* Kutoomba, 5.10c

Vogel, P508; Bartlett (Y2K)

Sport route on small tower in group campsite 2. Bolts and 1 FP to 2 bolt anchor.

She Is Helga, I am Sven, 5.9/10a

Vogel, P524; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P54

A dirty climb with 1 bolt and 1 FP? to 2 bolt anchor. Located left of Don Genero Crack. 

Sweatpants
Sweatpants

Sweatpants, 5.11a

Vogel, P524; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P54

Sweatpants is probably harder than 11a. Holds have broken off. This climb is very height dependent. 5.11+?

 

Lascivious Conduct, Part II, 5.10- R

Vogel, P515; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P23

Sweatpants is probably harder than 11a. Holds have broken off. This climb is very height dependent. 5.11+?

 

Conduct
Lascivious Conduct

Rattlesnake Canyon Area

The following routes reference:
Vogel, P551;Bartlett (Indian Cove), P66

** Stink Finger, 5.10

This route is on the Snake Eye Pillar, left of Snake Eye Pillar route. 8 bolts to 3 bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Snake Eye Pillar route.

Stink Steak, 5.7

Located left of Snake Eye Pillar. 3 bolt arete to rap anchor.

** Jen, 5.10

This is a 2 pitch route way up Rattlesnake Canyon, on the left past Commissioner's Buttress (Pyramid). This is the furthest route that I know up rattlesnake Canyon. 8 bolts, 2 FP, 2 rap anchors. Pitch 1 - thin flakes to a right facing lieback. Pitch 2 - face climbing past bolts.

** UDI, 5.10+

beyond the climbs in Vogel and Bartlett 
Way up Rattlesnake Canyon on the left. This route goes up a steep buttress. The first part is up a chimney, then up some cracks. The top part is face climbing past 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Double rope rappel off! Do not lower off this climb with a single rope!

The following routes reference:
Vogel, P550;Bartlett (Indian Cove), P64-65

** Gaines Route, 5.12

The far left side of Dune.

* Back Up Singers, 5.8

Crack right of 200 Motels.

Fatty's Alright, 5.7

Crack left of Cactus Cooler.  

The following Cactus City routes reference:
Vogel, P546;Bartlett (Indian Cove), P73

Cactus City

** Cooter, 5.9+

This is a 3 pitch climb at Cactus City, a very large and isolated formation. It is located on the left side of the face. Pitch 1 - Climb 100 feet up cracks to a belay in the cave (one bolt). Pitch 2 - A short pitch (40 ft.) up to a ledge. Climb right out of cave to ledge with a fixed belay/rap station. Pitch 3 - Many bolts and a few cams up pillar to summit. 2 bolts on top for belay/rappel.

* We Aim to Please, So Please Aim, 5.6

This is on the right side of Cactus City. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Ends at anchor for Bury Me with My Boots On (5.9 PG/R).

The following routes reference:
Vogel, P543-44;Bartlett (Indian Cove), P67

These climbs are located on the end of a high ridge, SW of the Corral Wall in Indian Cove, up Rattlesnake Canyon. These climbs are easily seen from the Corral Wall. They are way up on the ridge.

** Unknown Crack, 5.9

This is a cool, right facing dihedral. This climb starts on a high tier, above a black buttress.

* Maids of Honor, 5.7

4 bolts.

Whores of Babylon, 5.6

flake.

* Kill Them All; Let God Sort Them Out, 5.8

This is on the lower black buttress. Begin in a crack and move left onto buttress and climb up past 7 bolts.

The following Ponderosa Wall- Black Tower routes reference:
Vogel, P544;Bartlett (Indian Cove), P70; Bartlett (IC Y2K), P77

** Hop Sing, 5.8

Adam Cracks a Joke, 5.8

** Bonanza, 5.10b

*** Virginia City, 5.10+

Stone Temple Pilots, 5.9+ PG/R

Lung Butter, 5.9

3 bolts, chimney/face

*** Black Like Night, 5.11d

* Coyote Crack, 5.9

* Wet More, 5.10b

* Doc Holiday, 5.10a

** Blazing Saddles, 5.10a

This is on the lower black buttress. Begin in a crack and move left onto buttress and climb up past 7 bolts.

Other Indian Cove Areas

Jaime Maneuver, 5.8

Jaime Maneuver

Vogel, P507; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P12

3 bolt face route on the side of Jaime's Rock. This was mistakenly called "Feminine Itch" in Bartlett's Indian Cove Y2K Reprint Edition.

 

 

 

***Campfire Girl, 5.8+

 

Vogel, P516; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P28

This very difficult climb can be climbed at 5.8 up to a double bolt anchor, without doing the irritatingly hard top section. Done at 5.8, it is an excellent, well-protected, 5.8 trad climb with great pro, great climbing, and great rock.

*Celine, 5.10c

Vogel, P508; Bartlett (Indian Cove), P14

Celine

This climb is in Indian Cove Group Campsite Area on the East face of Hodgepodge Rock. It has 6 or so bolts on it and it goes to a 2 bolt anchor. A small/medium cam is needed for the crack section in the middle of the climb. It starts steep and finishes on a slab section at the top. Grainy at the top, but hopefully, it will clean up with more ascents. 

 

 

The Shank 5.10- *

Vogel p. 529 Bartlett Indian Cove p. 42-43The Shank This route climbs a steep bucketed face in Indian Cove. It is located left of The Mosasic Wall and just east of the north end of the Palisades Corridor. This route faces north and looks at Morbid Mound. 4 bolts to a bolted anchor. Q. D.'s only. Approached from Billboard Parking or Short Wall Parking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PETA Crags

PETA Crag

This climbing area is on the hillside and nearby hidden valleys just southwest of 29 Palms. The PETA Crag can easily be seen from the Del Taco in 29 Palms on Hwy 62 (near the Motel 6). So far there have been 11 routes done, 5 of them done on the PETA Crag. The PETA Crag is about a 45 min. hike, Clifton Giblet about an hour, while the rest are 1 hr. 15 min.

 

 


1. Mink 5.7 This is the hand/finger crack on the far right side of the PETA Crag. Poor rock.
2. Monkey Burger ** 5.7/5.8 This is the Face right of the "I love Animals, They Taste Good" Arete. This climb eventually meets the aret near the top. 5 bolts.
3. I Love Animals, They Taste Good ** 5.9 This climb starts in the obvious corner on the front face. then goes to the obvious clean arete to the right. There are 4 bolts, 4 fp, and an anchor. 90'. 
4. Let's Eat Animal Meat 5.7+ Obvious corner to wide crack on the front face. 
5. Cat, The Other White Meat ** 5.9 Face climb with 2 fp and 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Located on the face left of Let's Eat Animal Meat.


6. Clifton Giblet * 5.10c
Located on another formation up the valley from PETA crag, on the left side of the wash.
This climb goes past 4 bolts, to a loose crack/ramp up and right, then up a weakness/crack to the top. The top of this climb is loose and difficult. The 4the bolt is doubled, so you can rappel before the loose/difficult/irritationg part, but this shortens the route considerably. To get off the top, you need to jump across an exposed chasm on the backside. The climb is excellent to the 4th bolt,and "an excellent adventure" to the top...(i.e. that part sucks...)...There is a hawks nest on the right side of the formation, so please avoid this climb if the birds are present, as not to disturb them.


7. Yum Yum ** 5.8 
This climb, and the next, are located up the drainage more and way up the hillside on the left. Yum Yum is the right of two climbs on a very prominent buttress/pillar. 4 or 5 bolts.

Boom Boom 8. Boom Boom ** 5.8 Boom Boom is the left of the two routes.


9. Lockerbie * 5.9- Up and behind YumYum/Boom Boom is another formation with a big roof on the right side. Lockerbie goes up the face just left of the big roof, past 4 bolts and 1 fp. 

10. Locker D * 5.10c This climb starts right and under the roof, turns the room and traverses a bit left just above the roof. 3 bolts and 1 fp. 

11. Unnamed 5.7 This is the obvious wide crack just left of Lockerbie.