Hidden Valley New Routes 

return to newroutes...

new sept 06

The Gay Germans 5.10c

Climb the face on the left side of Pitted Rock. Climbs past 3 or 4 bolts , with a crack at the top. Bolts on the top.

Sponge Worthy 5.10-*

T R on the far left side of the Thin Wall (Just left of Child's Play)

Pee Wee Rock

Pee Wee's Piton, ** 5.10-

This climb has 5 bolts and 1 FP and is located left of Oui Oui on Pee Wee Rock. The start is marked by a drilled angle and there is a 2 bolt sport anchor on top.

Sand Castle, 5.11a (T.R.)

This climb is located 20' right of Oui-Oui. (see Bartlett P. 120; Hidden Valley 2001 Supplement)

Intersection Rock

Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement p. 118 Vogel p. 187

Marooned, 5.10c

Var. to The Flake. Partway up The Flake (5.8) climb a bolt and move right into a wide crack.

Outer Limit-Free Var., 5.9*

climb Outer Limit to the base of the aid section. Step left into W. Chimney for 20' then back right on plates and follow Outer Limit crack to the top.

Filet of Sole*, 5.11d

starts on Bat ledge climbs face right of 2nd pitch of SW Passage. 3 bolts

Turtle Rock

Bartlett p. 17-18 Hidden Valley 2001 Supplement p. 110-111 Vogel p. 173

Give a Mouse a Cookie *, 5.10-

This climb goes between Blistering and Easy Day 3 bolts, 2 FP

Luninous Breast Var., 5.10c

start left of regular route, underling up and right under a slanting roof to meet regular route.

Snapping Turtle, 5.9 (R)

from bolt anchors 50' up Blistering, climb face to crack to a bulge

Ninja Turtle, 5.8 (R)

start in the thin crack of Easy Day, thin climb directly up the face to bolt anchors. Move right around a roof, thin go up a steep face.

Peyote Cracks Area

Vogel; p. 225; Bartlett 2001 Supplement p. 124

Handygland * 5.9+

Located on the right side of the east face of the Peyote Cracks formation, right of all the hard routes. 2 bolts up a short,steep, featured face.

Hanging Turd of Babylon 5.9

Wide Crack left of Handygland Poor rock.

Take the Pain 5.13b

Overhanging 4 bolt Cosgrove route.

Kalkowski Route * 5.10+

Right of Take the Pain. One bolt, one FP to a very steep crack. 2 bolt belay/rap anchor  

The Potatoe Head

Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement p. 120 Vogel p. 206

Masochism,* 5.8

3 bolt face right of Tubers in Space

Cyclops

Vogel; p. 205-206; Bartlett HV 78 2001 Supplement p. 120

Dino Damage*, 5.11a/b

face route between Leaders Fright and The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics.

New Year's Day*, 5.10b/c PG.

starts left of Gray Cell Green, goes to Gray Cell Green Anchors, then continues to the top.

Gray Cell Green**, 5.11-

New 3/8 inch bolts, shaky piton replaced with bolt, 3 bolt anchor

Real Hidden Valley

Vogel p. 152; Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement p. 116

Skippy the Mudskipper, 5.7 (R)

crack right of Hhecht

Gritty Kitty, 5.9

off-width left of Jump Back, Loretta

The Old Woman (W. Face)

The Gladiator, 5.9 P6/R

left slanting crack on wall left of NW Chimney

The Arena *, 5.10b PG/R.

Start in Gladiator, then right into scoop and up thin cracks to top.

Little Old Lady, 5.9.

Start on Ledges 30' up and left of Gladiator and climb a crack that becomes a left facing corner higher

NW Finger crack, 5.11a.

Climb NW Chimney for 40' then climb a crack right and up.

The Cavity **, 5.11d

Chimney past the left side of the Fang Tooth, then go up past 3 bolts and a horizontal to meet Dogleg at top.

Bridwell - Sustad **, 5.11- .

Start at Dogleg, then go up and left past 3 bolts. Exist big scoop of Fang on left, then finish left on Middle Band.

Sexy Grandma, 5.8/5.9 ** .

Start right of Double Start. 3 bolts, 2 FP, to 2 bolt anchor. Goes up arete left of Band Saw.

Skill Saw, 5.10d (T.R.)

a var. to Band Saw. Start off a boulder right of Band Saw, and join it at the roof.

Dihedral Rock (backside)

Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement p. 117; Vogel p. 136

Carlos*, 5.9

( left route) 3 bolts

Smears of Joy, 5.10c

(T.R.) middle route

Slabulous*, 5.9

right route (bolted)

These 3 climbs are listed in Bartletts 2001 Supplement to Hidden Valley climbs. They are located on the back side of Dihedral Rocks. Approach left of Coarse and Buggy

Dihedral Rock (N. Face)

Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement Vogel p. 136

Crotch Putty, 5.10b/c

This climbs a very strenuous wide crack between Immaculate Conception (5.9) and Far Side of Crazy (5.10b R).

Arturo's Arete

Bartlett HV 2001 Supplement P 118

Arturo's Arete 5.8

This is in the Canyon behind Coarse and BUggy, a ways left of the climb Carlos. A very obvious arete which has 2 bolts and 1 piton. The climb basically follows the narrow arete.

 

Pitted Rock

The Gay Germans 5.10

On the left side edge of Pitted Rock , left of the climb Pittfall, is The Gay Germans 5.10 Climb up grainy face past 3 bolts. This climbs ends up a gritty hand crack. Rap from Pittfall anchors.

 Vogel p.207 Bartlett Hidden Valley p. 79

Reverend Dick Shook 5.10b

This crappy climb goes up the East face of Pee Wee, and is located a ways left of Pee Wee's Piton. It's got some bolts, a fixed pin, and a piton in a drilled hole. No anchor on top. Bring a 3-4 in. cam form a hidden placement. This climb sucks. (Now I got your curiousity?)....Go do it , and see for yourself...(It's safe..)

Tower of Pain (Unknown route)

This is located on the backside of the Pillar of Pain. This climb is 5.11- and has a few bolts on it. Difficult and not very good. Anchor on top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Vogel p. 172 Bartlett Hidden Valley 2004 Supp p. 112

Windburn 5.10-

This sorry climb accomplishes it's goal; to get to the top of the formation. Climb a short crack , then up crappy/grainy rock past 2 bolts to an anchor. Unworthy, but a summit.