new sept 06
- Booby Love 5.11-* (TR)
- This cool top rope is on a boulder on the south end of the clump of Rocks across from the Lechlinsky Crack off of Geo Tour. The route faces south, and starts off the desert floor, on an obvious large boulder. Bolts on top . The left Arete has been top roped too at 5.10-.
- Martin Luther's Thing. 5.10c *
- Hand/fist crack left of the 2nd pitch of Milk Arete. Start off of the ledge top of the first pitch of Milk Arete.
- Electric Parade 5.8*
- This climb goes up a south-facing buttress past bolts (fixed pin?) to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on the rock formation across from the Lechlinski Cracks. Look at the South end, up in the talus a bit. Faces South.
- Tie your Mother Down 5.7*
- 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor South facing slab route Located down and left of Little Man in the Boat and Ho Bag (Up and right from Win Dixie)
- Lava Dome (W. Face ) 5.9 *
- 3 bolts 5.10+* 5 bolts
Milk Arete 5.10d **
Vogel P. 407
The excellent Milk Arete is now more excellent! It now has a 2nd pitch! After the 5.10+ first pitch, you end on a ledge. There are now 2 bolts on this ledge (not put in by the first ascent party, but please leave them in anyways... bolt chopping is a very damaging thing to do to the rock, and is usually a bad thing to do for the climbing community too.). The 2nd pitch is 5.10- and goes up the next headwall steep part past 3 more bolts. Just left of the 2nd pitch of Milk Arete is Martin Luther's Thing 5.10c*, a very short steep hand crack . Just left of the Milk arete is The James Earl Ray Crack 5.4 and left of the James Earl Ray Crack is a 4 bolt face climb on a buttress that ends at a 2 bolt anchor (Ah-Goo 5.7*)...Quick Draws only. Edge of the Knife, 5.8***
Vogel, P413
This old route used to be X rated; it had no protection. Now it has 1 bolt, plus an anchor on top, making a safe climb.
Misa, 5.10c TR
Vogel, P413
Left arete left of Edge of the Knife. Vogel P. 413
Dik Dik, 5.8*
Vogel, P402
3 bolt face (w. face) right of Sit Up and Think (5.9 +)
These two climbs are on a block-shaped formation in the level area just off the trail on the right when you get to the upper area of the Desert Queen Mine.
Mane Resolution, 5.11c*
3 bolts on a dike; this is the right route.
Power Shopping, 5.10*
Vogel, P424(map)
This is the left route (3 bolts).
These 2 routes are on a small wall to the right of the Lechlinski Cracks.
Keith's Ripped Back (right route), 5.8+*
1 fp, 2 bolts (2 bolt anchor)
Keith's 10,000 Girlfriends, 5.7*
Vogel, P410
1 fp, 2 bolts (2 bolt anchor)
These climbs are located on the very southern-most formation of Rock in the GeoTour Area, south of Equinox and the Lost Pencil. Not in Vogel or Bartlett
Buttress, Buttress, Golly, 5.9
This is a 2-pitch climb. First pitch goes up cracks to a ledge. The 2nd pitch goes up the buttress past bolts into a wide crack. N. Facing.
Bury the Pickle, 5.10b**
3 bolt face (2 bolt anchor) This is the left route. W. Facing
Eat Me Volume 23, 5.10b**
3 bolt face route. This is the right route (same 2 bolt anchor)
Black Eel, 5.9+**
This climb is located just left of Bury the Pickle and is the easiest of the fine trio.
These 3 routes are just south of the Lost Pencil formation
Win Dixie, 5.9*
2 bolts on the arete of a large boulder. This boulder is on the S.E. side of a clump of rocks south of the Lost Pencil. The route goes up the South arete, and starts right off the desert floor.
These next two routes are up higher on the clump of rocks south of the Lost Pencil. Approach from the last side.
Little Man in the Boat, 5.9+*
1 bolt to crack/flake. E. facing
Ho Bag, 5.10c**
Vogel, P407(map)
Hard crack to 4 bolt face 2 bolt anchor on top. Faces south-west
One Eyed Frog, 5.10+*
Vogel, P406
2 bolt route on big boulder just south of Slash Boulder. Route faces Slash Boulder. 2 bolt anchor on top.
Queen Crimson Dome Area (Desert Mine Area)
Get Off My Sister, 5.10+*
Vogel, P428
This route is located above Nerve Storm (5.11c Vogel P. 428). It is a thin crack with 2 bolts on the left side of a formation. There is an unfinished "project" to it's right on the front of this formation (one bolt?). Please feel free to finish the "project". Might need another bolt? It's probably 5.11 something or other. We couldn't do it.
Perpetual Motion Area
Soapy Tit Wank, 5.10+*
Vogel, P414
This is a traversing dike (5 bolts) left of Georgia O'Keefe.
Gofer a Pokin', 5.6
Vogel, P407
Crack right of Pokin' a Gofer.
Sexy Grandpa, 5.8*
Vogel, P407
Dog leg crack on E. face of Harry's Quarry.
Amatuer Sheep Shagger (aka ASS), 5.7 A2*
Vogel, P425
Huge roof aid climb right of shock the Poodle. Desert Queen Mine Area. (see aid climbs )
Stairway to Kevin, 5.8*
Vogel, P433
4 bolt face arete right of tears for fears. Fraggle Rock/Desert Queen Mine.
Prozac Crack, 5.8
Vogel, P433
Crack right of Stairway to Kevin. Fraggle Rock/Desert Queen Mine. Vogel P. 433
James Earl Ray Crack, 5.4/5.5
Vogel, P407
Crack left of Milk Arete. GeoTour Rd./Lost Pencil. Vogel P. 407
These next 8 climbs are on the NE face of Demon Dome
Hear Say, 5.9
Far left route. Crack to a roof
Bizarre Limbo, 5.9
Crack, then left to knobs. Located right of Hear Say (left side)
Horizon, 5.9
Crack (fp) then left to knobs, bolted anchor
Cyanide Life, 5.9*
Bolt to fp to fp to bolt to top.
Land, You Idiot, Land, 5.9
Crack to 1 bolt.
Montclair, 5.9+*
4 bolts(right side)
Bee War, 5.6
Knob climb (right side) to bolted anchor
Bee's Warm, 5.9
Vogel, P400
3 bolts, far right side
Leather Community, 5.9*
Vogel, P397
2 bolt face right of 2 Bolt Wall (Two Bolt Rock).
Bartlett Corner*, 5.8
