Central Joshua Tree New Routes 

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Saddle Rocks N. Face

Vogel p. 376-379 Bartlett Central p. 87-92, 2002 Supplement P144
Cowgirl in the Sand 5.10a
Climbs left side of Pillar
Where Have All the Cowboys Gone 5.10d ***
Climbs pillar, then up steep face past 9 bolts to an anchor.Santa Cruz, Cowboys
Santa Cruz 5.8+**
climb Pillar (same as Where Have All...), then go right on slab past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
New Route
(Located left of R and R ) One or 2 bolts 5.7?
R and R
Has new 3/8 bolts with hangers.
The Other Flake 5.9
Start on R and R and traverse right across entire undercling face. Continue into Orange Flake or other nearby climbs.
Desperate for a Friday Off 5.10b R
Climb face right of last pitch of Right On. 3 widely spaced bolts.
Marlboro Man 5.10c
3 bolt face left of Kid Calingula.
Face 5.10+
(TR right of Marlboro Man.) Steep edges (Would be a good lead climb with bolts..?)
New Route 5.8+ PG
New route Right of Kid Calingula. Start out on slabby waterchute, and goes up steeper headwall above past more blots.
New Route 5.8
Right again of above route. Bolted slab in water stain/chute/groove. Top section goes up steep featured face , very close to Right on chimney (But just left).
Lone Pine 5.11a *
Start by a small pine tree, just right of Cheap Way to Die. 6/7 bolts to belay.
Cole -Anderson 5.10 a/b
Parallels (Just left) of Dial 911 .

Saddle Rocks South Face

Saddle Rocks New Routes
Eileen 5.7*
Sharp, pointed small spire with 2/3 bolts to anchor. Climbs right edge of spire.
White Torpedo 5.7/5.8
(AKA Short Story ) Obvious large left-facing book.
Never Shake a Baby 5.9*
Bolted arête right of White Torpedo book. (2-bolt anchor).
No-Name Crack 5.8
ramp/crack to grainy steep crack )right of Never Shake a Baby.
Charleton Heston is My President 5.9 *
3 bolt face (2 bolt anchor) located on White boulder.
Riding the Cotton Pony
Riding the Cotton Pony 5.11*
Climbs orange stain. 2 pitch face, many bolts, some suspect rock. 2 raps to get off.
Hey McLeod , Get Off of My Ewe 5.7 A2+ **
Excellent aid climb. (see aid climbing section).

 

 

 

 

Darva

Darva 5.8
Messy corners to 2 bolt face. Forgettable.
Spencer Aid route A4 ?
(looks loose).