New Bouldering Area Giveaway

I’ve recently discovered 3 great new bouldering areas and wanted to tell interested climbers, since I really don’t have the time or energy to develop them, I’d rather just explore new areas. I found these areas (and many more chossy areas) during exploration hikes looking for rocks and stuff. I (or we) did a couple of the obvious classics but there are tons of problems left to be climbed, rated, named, etc. There are no access problems since they are located on BLM land or in a National Park Wilderness.

The first and best area is in Joshua Tree NP. Its located at the base of the Indian Head (Goof Proof Roof) and called the “Pumpkin Patch”. There are about 50 boulders and 100+ problems to be done. The rock quality is exceptionally good, it could very well be the best rock in Josh. It’s a very weathered dark granite with feldspar crystals similar to Tuolumne Mdws but with desert varnish. The boulders are cleaved and somewhat polished, with overhanging jugs and steep face problems, with mostly good landings. The best boulders are up a canyon on the North side of the Indian head, another batch of boulders are directly below the face of the Goof Proof Roof.

Another find during my exploration in this area was the elusive White Elephant, a Fred Beckey route done in the early 60s, rumored to be a 3 pitch 5.8. There was always a search for this fabled route during the golden years of Josh (late 70s-early 90s), but no routes ever fit the description. Well anyway, it’s on the West Side of the Indian Head, some one should climb it. Maybe there’s some old fixed pins and other good booty. There’s also many other new roped routes to be done up there. Todd Battey, Kevin Daniels and I went up there last May (2001) and did about 20 of the most obvious classic problems. The Northern most boulder has several classic problems; including the Sliced Pumpkin Crack 5.9 and just to the left is the Feeding Frenzy, a 5.11 steep face problem, named after our early excitement while bagging every classic problem we could find (though we tired quickly and left many boulders untouched).

To get there, drive up the East Park entrance road in 29 Palms (Utah Trail Road) and before the Park entrance are a bunch of Dome houses on the left (east). There’s a small dirt road on the left just past the dome people’s road that has good legal parking (no entrance fee required). Hike directly up the canyon to the Indian Head, veer right just below the formation, and go up the right hand canyon to a valley with boulders (the best patch of boulders), its about a 20 minute hike for me. To get to the boulders at the base of the Indian Head, go up and left around the backside of the Indian Head formation, You’ll see the White Elephant on the West Side. The USGS map refers to the Indian Head as Joshua Mt.

The next area is called the “Haystack Boulders” and is located just East of Lone Pine, CA. The boulders are a dark granite similar to Giant Rock with sculpted holds on desert varnish. There is no comparison in the quality of rock to the chossy Alabama Hills across the way. There are about 30 boulders with ~100 problems, me and Todd Battey did about 10 –20 problems. Rock collectors know this area for a deposit of Amasonite (light blue microcline feldspar).

To get there, take the 136 toward Death Valley from S. Lone Pine, veer left on to Dolomite Loop Road and then make another left onto the first major dirt road just before the dolomite mining operation, Owenyo Lone Pine Rd. The road goes back northwest towards a large boulder-strewn hill on the right. As you approach it, look for a road that takes you to the Southern base of the hill and follow it around the right side (East) of the hill. A parking lot at the end of the road has a couple classic boulders. There’s more boulders along base of the hill; in the pass between the hill and the Inyo Mtns; also at the top of hill; and to the East of the parking area on the desert floor. The parking area is a little trashed but isn’t too bad for camping.

The last area is another granite area just outside the 100’s of tuft bouldering areas near Bishop/Mammoth. The area is called the “X (Ecstasy) Boulders” (in line with the theme Happy and Sad boulders). The rock is a light Grey colored granite with many features and cracks, similar to Idyllwild type rock. I did about 3 problems (and found some nice arrowheads). There are 100’s of boulders in the area, mostly with very good landings. The area is about 7000-ft. elevation in open scrub habitat, which is a great alternative to the heat down in Bishop. To get there, take the road from the green church (2S84), or Gorge Road (4S02) from Tom’s Place to Benton Crossing Road. Several miles out make a right at Chidago Canyon, a good dirt road. Stay left at an intersection at ~3 miles and go ~5 miles more till you see a hill with boulders. A power line passes directly over the road at the area. Park where-ever, and scout the boulders out up the hill (Northwest), or to the Southeast below the road. There’s an obvious classic 5.7 lieback “The X Crack”, just up the hill with a great ledge to hang out on.

I wasn’t sure if I should keep the areas quiet and let them just sit there. Slowly they will be found out or should I just tell the world now and get it over with. Really I just wanted to share them with the anyone that wants to check out some new undeveloped areas, I know I would of loved to have some new areas when I was climbing more.

Regards

Craig H. Fry

e-mail craighfry@earthlink.net

The joshuatreeclimb.com bouldering intro:

Invasion of the pad people. Bouldering's popularity has increased dramatically over the last few years. No ropes, no dangling heavy gear; just pure, simple movement on stone. The appeal is obvious.

Boulder pads have made landing a lot more forgiving. Still, twisted ankles, broken heels and wrists are common badges of courage. So called "High Ball" problems entice boulderers who want the adrenaline buzz of the high commitment, or to impress themselves or their friends.

Watch yourself and keep your ego in check. Be environmentally responsible with the small, fragile desert plants and soil.

Here are some unreported, "new" or "secret" boulder problems/areas. Enjoy them, take care of them and yourself. Be responsible and safe. Pull down.

Stay tune for an updated, unpublished guide to Section 6.