Lost Horse Sport Routes
(photos coming soon) 

Lost Horse Area is an area which is often visited because it's the area that everyone sees as one drives into the Park from the West Entrance. Many of these climbs are close to a road, and quite popular and well traveled. Lost Horse Area also has some remote climbs, well off the beaten path. It is an area which has been heavily explored, but don't kid yourself; there's still lots of unexplored places, hidden canyons, unclimbed routes, and diamonds in the rough. Enjoy, be safe, climb the classics, and even take time to go off the beaten path; You will be greatly rewarded for your efforts. Many of these climbs need supplemental gear for placements or anchors. It would be foolish to climb with only a rock of quick draws.

Gordo's Picks (Some suggestions of quality routes which aren't too hard to find and very worth doing)

Entry Level

B is for Beers 5.9+*
Tip Toe 5.7**
Chicken Run 5.7*
Norm 5.9+*
 

Solid

Girl's in the Mist 5.10d**
Black Jack 5.10d**
Gettysburger 5.10b/c*
Leap Erikson 5.10b**
Sig Alert 5.10+**
Rock Candy 5.9+**
Holly Device 5.10-*
Puto De Yo Yo 5.10-*
 

Advanced

Pet Cemetery 5.11a**
Johnny Lange Crags 5.11+-5.12c **
Toxic Waltz 5.12 **
Alf's Arête 5.11b***
Creature Comforts 5.11-*
Peanut Gallery routes 5.10+ to 5.11 **
 

Negropolis

Bartlett p. 12 Vogel p. 26
I Fall , Therefore I Am 5.10c
Bolts, (even bolts next to OW crack) Anchor
Beer for Beers 5.10- * 5 Bolts
Anchor This climb used to be sort of dangerous and run-out, but has been retro-bolted.
Girls in the Mist 5.10d**
Bolts (no anchor)

Hell Rock

Bartlett p.13 Vogel p.27
Route of All Evil 5.11d **
Bolts
No Rest for the Wicked 5.12a PG **
3 bolts
Bartlett/ Derrick Route 5.10
Bolts

Vagmarken

Bartlett p.14,15 Vogel p.28-30
Just stop it 5.10 -
2 bolts No anchor
Bold is a 4-lketter Word 5.10c
4 bolts No anchor
Podium of Indecision 5.10a
bolted face 5 bolts No anchor

The Place Where Sheep Sleep

Vogel Sport Guide p.12
Where Sheep Sleep 5.12
4 bolts anchor
Where Sheep Shit 5.10b/c
3 bolts (pro needed) bolted anchor
Were Sheep Here First? 5.10 c/d
3 bolts to anchor

Quail Spring ( AKA Trash Can Rock)

Bartlett p. 15-17 Vogel p.30-33
Profundity
2 bolts No anchor
Tiptoe
3 bolts no anchor

White Cliffs of Dover

Bartlett p. 19,20 Vogel p.38-39
Good Housekeeping 5.11-*
Bolts (some gear needed?)
Chicken Run 5.7
Bolts no anchor

Johnny Lange Crags

Bartlett p.22
Evil Tree 5.12 b/c ***
3 bolts
White Trash 5.11+ ***
5 bolts
French Roast 5.11+**
6 bolts
Doggie Style 5.12c**
4 bolts

Erotic Dome

Bartlett p. 24,25 Vogel p.41
Leg Lifter 5.11-*
Bolts, FP (some gear) anchor

Mini Crag

Bartlett p. 28 Vogel p.83
Cat's Claw 5.11 *
2 bolts
Toiling Midgets 5.8
bolts

Roadside Rock

Bartlett p.30 Vogel p.87
Restaurant at the End of the Universe
2 bolts No anchor Some pro needed

Granny Goose

Bartlett p.35-37 Vogel p.92
Pump Up the Volume 5.10+/5.11-
3 bolts No anchor

Ken Black Area

Bartlett p.36,37 Vogel p. 94
Pacific Ave. Dorm 5.7
3 bolts This climb starts up high No anchor
Black Jack 5.10+ **
8 bolts sport anchor
Bamboozled Again 5.11b
3 bolt face no anchor

Gettysburger

Bartlett p.38 Vogel p. 133
Gettysburger 5.10b/c*
This climb has changed a bit. The bottom section, which was once protected by a copperhead and a piton, now has a bolt. The climb used to traverse right, but a big block came off... some it now goes straight up... past a new bolt anchor on top

Dairy Queen Wall

Bartlett p.41-43 Vogel p. 131
Norm 5.9+ **
Bolts and a fixed RURP (One tcu at start?) 2 bolt anchor
Leap Erikson 5.10b **
bolts No anchor
Mojus Slushie 5.10c PG
bolts
Toxic Waltz 5.12 PG
4 bolts
Airy Scene 5.11 b/c
4 bolts (needs supplemental gear)

I.R. S. Wall

Bartlett p.43,44 Vogel p.130
Alf's Arête 5.11b PG **
7 or 8 bolts No anchor
Limpy Grandma 5.8*
Bolts, fixed rurp Anchor

Lower Freeway

Bartlett p.53,54 Vogel p. 95-96
Thigh Master 5.8 *
2-3 bolts Rap from Smooth as Silk anchor (slings)
Sig Alert (AKA Cast Up a Highway) 5.10d**
bolts to anchor

Rock Valley

Bartlett p.57-59 Vogel p.98-99
Top of the Pops 5.10d*
6 bolts
Holly Device 5.10-*
4 bolts No anchor
Rock Candy 5.9 ***
6 bolts (a piece or two of gear)
Amber Waves of Grain 5.8
4 bolts located left of Bolivian Freeze Job

Lost Horse Wall Area

Bartlett p. Vogel p. 101
Gaines Route 5.11 *

Imaginary Voyage Area

Bartlett p.63 Vogel p. 103
Kevin Daniel's Route 5.11

Bad Santa Wall

Bartlett p.64-66 Vogel p. 105
The Backdoor Santa 5.7 *
3-4 bolts (Some gear needed) no anchor

Lloyds Rock

Bartlett p.67 Vogel p. 107
Lizard of Oz 5.10+*
bolts (some pro)

Beetle Buttress

Bartlett p.68 Vogel p. 109
Volvo Station Wagon 5.8*
3 bolts no anchor

Creature Comforts Wall (Near Aiguille De Joshua Tree)

Bartlett p. 67 Vogel p. 108
George's Route 5.11-*

Cockroach Crag

Bartlett p.68,69 Vogel p. 109
Third Bolt from the Sun 5.11 PG

Dungeon Area

Bolted Dikes

Mike Fink

Beaver Dam Near Super Heroes/ super Creeps

Bartlett p.71,72 Vogel p. 104
Gaines Route 5.10c*

Lost Horse Ranger Station

Bartlett p.73-75 Vogel p.120-121
Barbara Bush 5.10b PG
2 bolts No anchor
Swain in the Breeze 5.6
4 bolts (No hangers) No anchor
Swain Song 5.10/5.11
4 bolts (No hangers)
Polly Wants a Crack 5.10a

Candlestein Pass

Bartlett p.77-79 Vogel p.123
Puto De Yo Yo 5.10- *
Bolts, Fp, and some gear Anchor on top
Karlis' White Ass 5.10-*
Bolts

Jimmy Cliff

Bartlett p.80 Vogel p.110-115
Lone Ranger 5.9 PG
3 bolts
Bad Czech Girl 5.11a
bolts no anchor
Peanut Gallery 5.11a* PG
4 bolts anchor
The Balcony 5.11 b/c **
6 bolts to anchors
Rat Race 5.10d/5.11a * PG
3 bolts (watch it)
Chilly Willy 5.10c A1
(first move needs to be free climbed) Bolts
The Brontos or Us 5.11a
3 bolts Bartlett p.81 Vogel p.
Edge of Doom 5.10c PG
3 bolts anchor Bartlett p. 86 Vogel p.