Hidden ValleySport Routes
(photos coming soon) 

Hidden Valley is the center of the Park for climbers. It is the main climber's campground, and if you don't have a car, this is where you need to be. You can walk to hundreds of climbs, and often times there are climbs right out of your campsite. The climbs in Hidden Valley are awesome and the obvious lines were some of the first rock climbs done in the Park. Because this is sort of a higher use area, it is also one of the most developed as far as established climbing routes goes. Drive into Hidden Valley on a nice sunny April weekend, and you'll see climbers all over the place. There are many sport climbs in the Hidden Valley area. Remember, that some of these sport climbs are run-out, may need supplemental gear, and might not have a sport anchor. Enjoy, check your knot and harness, and never eat anything bigger than your head.
 

Gordo's Picks (Some suggestions of quality routes which aren't too hard to find and very worth doing)

Starter Kit for Greenhorns

Loose Lady 5.9***
Lost my Shirt 5.9*
Sexy Grandma 5.8+/5.9- **
Masachoism 5.8*
Amanda 5.9** (take some gear)
A Walk on the Beach 5.4 *
  

Solid Sport Climbers

Lady Fingers 5.10-**
Gripped up the Hole 5.10-*
Run For Your Life 5.10b ***
The Wolfman 5.10+**
Shauna Grant 5.10+**
Papa Woolsey 5.10b**
Pumping Ego 5.10-*
Chalk Up Another One 5.10- **
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics **
New Years Day 5.10+ **
Pee Wee's Piton 5.10- **
Elexir 5.10+**
 

Rad Orange County Gym Puffies

Desert Shield 5.12d/5.13a***
Satanic Mechanic 5.12b***
The Runaway 5.11b**
Bee Bop Tango 5.11 **
Some Like it Hot 5.12 **
Latitudes 5.12+ ***
G-String 5.13+**
Bikini Whale 5.12a**
Rap Bolters are Weak 5.11+ **
Glory Road 5.11+ *
Trapeze 5.11+**
Huevos 5.11+**
Blind Ambition 5.11- **
Grey Cell Green 5.11- **
Sniper 5.11a **
Jugline 5.11c **
Blood of Christ 5.12***
Roller Coaster 5.11c**
Stand and Deliver 5.12-**
Peyote Sport Routes (East Face) 5.11-5.13**
 

Houser Buttress Area

Bartlett p.9 Vogel p. 178
Armageddon Tired 5.10+/5.11- **
3 bolts
Badger's Choff Piece 5.11-
3 bolts (height dependant)
Loose Lady 5.10- ***
7 bolts to anchor
Puss N' Boots 5.11 b/c ** PG/R
7 bolts to anchor
Lady Fingers 5.10-*
6 bolts
Lucky Lady 5.8* PG
2 bolts (no anchor)

Houser Gulley

Bartlett p.10
Give the People What They Want 5.10+*
3 bolts

Zombie Woof Rock

Bartlett p. 11 Vogel p. 179
Bats with Aids 5.10b
2 bolts (need TCU for horizonatls)
Ring Winker 5.11b
bolts

East Tower of Paine

Bartlett p.13 Vogel p. 174
North Face 5.9
4 bolts

Blue Nubian Area

Bartlett p. 14 Vogel p. 181
The Bat Cave 5.11c/d PG**
4 bolts (take some pro)

The Cluster

Bartlett p.15 Vogel p. 175
Gripped up the Hole 5.10- *
2 bolts to anchor Bartlett p. 15
Woodward Route 5.10d PG
4 bolts

Turtle Rock South Face/East Face

Bartlett p.16 Vogel p.172-173
Desert Shield 5.12d/5.13a ***
left most route 7 bolts
Jesus Saves 5.12c
Middle line of bolts
Satanic Mechanic 5.12b***
right line of bolts (natural gear?)
Integrity 5.14a **
9 bolts (anchor) Bartlett 2004 Supp. p. 111
Give a Mouse a Cookie * 5.10c *
bolts, fixed pins (some gear?) climbs to anchor Bartlett 2004 Supp. p.112
Wind Burn 5.10-
1 bolt (easy crack at start) Anchor Cool formation / summit, pathatic climbing on poor rock

Split Pillar Area

Bartlett p. 21-22 Vogel p. p. 151
Death Blow to the Uninitiated 5.12b/c
3 bolt route on So. side of Pillar

Tumbling Rainbow Formation

Bartlett p. 21-22 Vogel p. 170
Runnaway 5.11-**
left bolted route (anchors on top)
Run For YOur Life 5.10b/c ***
6 bolts (optional gear in middle and at top)
Tonic Boom 5.12d 5 bolts
Tic Tic Boom 5.12a**
4 or 5 bolts

Solosby Wall

Bartlett p. 22-23 Vogel p. 171
Slam Dance 5.11 5.11c PG *
Bartlett p. 22
Bebop Tango 5.11a **
4 bolts (anchor) Bartlett p. 23

Sentinal

Bartlett p. 24-25 Vogel p. 167-169
Me Mum Shit the Bed 5.11a/b
Bartlett p. 22
Butt Buttress 5.10b
4 bolts (anchor)
Great White Buffalo 5.11+/5.12-*
6 bolts ( Bring a piece to put in Flared Bare when it crosses this route)
Some Like it Hot 5.12 PG ***
Lots of Bolts (Originally an aid climb with no bolts).
Worm in the Brain 5.11+
Bolts, fixed Copperhead, and some gear needed. 2 bolt anchor
Latitudes 5.12+***
longest route in the Park (5 pitches) some gear needed. Lots of fixed stuff.

The Hidden Cliff

Bartlett p. 26 Vogel p. 170
G-String 5.13+/5.14-**
7 bolts (anchor)
Bikini Whale 5.12a **
5 bolts
The Joker 5.12c *
3 bolts Bartlett p. 26

Czech Dome

Bartlett p. 28 Vogel p. 165
Ajoi 5.10+
Bolts, 1 FP (Some gear needed).

Cow Formation

Bartlett p. 31 Vogel p. 163
Udder Chaos 5.11a **
5 bolts
Hollywood and Bovine 5.10d**
5 bolts (med. Cams)
Super Quickie 5.12b PG*
3 bolts to anchor

Alps Wall

Bartlett p. 33 Vogel p. 164
Formic Acid Head 5.10b PG
(thin Pro)

Elephant Dome

Bartlett p. 35 Vogel p. 159
Dumbo Drop 5.11d*
5 bolts

Great Burrito

Bartlett p. 34 Vogel p. 160
Fat Free 5.9+*
4 bolts (some pro) No anchor Closest thing to a sport climb on the wall.

Sports Challenge Rock

Bartlett p. 37-38 Vogel p. 154-156
Rap Bolters Are Weak 5.11+**
5 bolts
Eddie Haskell Takes Manhatten
5.10b/c* (No anchors)

The Wailing Wall

Bartlett p. 40 Vogel p.158
Liquid Confidence (AKA Miss Goodhead) 5.11a*
2 bolts

The Wart

Bartlett p. 41 Vogel p. 153
Syimbolic of Life 5.11a PG*
4 bolts (no anchor)
Toad Warriors 5.11d/5.12a **
4 bolts (Crack at Bottom)

Pitted Rock

Bartlett p. 43 Vogel p. 150
The Gay Germans 5.10c
3 bolts (one med cam) Anchor on top
Pitfall 5.11c*
4 bolts (Anchor)
The Pitslut 5.12a**
4 bolts (Anchor)

Three Pile Island

Bartlett p. 49 Vogel p. 148
The Rhoid Warrior 5.10c R
2 bolts (some gear?)
Hold Your Fire 5.13 PG*
2 Bolts, 1 FP (some gear)

Bite Rock

Bartlett p. 44 Vogel p. 148
THe Wolf Man 5.10+*
4 bolts ( No anchor)

Slump Rock

Bartlett p. 47 Vogel p. 142
No Touchee Wallee 5.8 or 5.11
3 bolts
Touchy Feely 5.10
2 bolts left of No Touchee Wallee.

Wall Street

Bartlett p. 48-49 Vogel p. 141
Lost my Shirt 5.8/5.9*
3 bolts (Anchor on top) Bartlett 2004 Supp. p. 122

Jam or Slam Rock

Bartlett p. 49-50 Vogel p. 141
Usual suspects 5.10+*
3 bolts

Swidgeteria

Bartlett p. 53 Vogel p. 137
Gordo Started It 5.10+
This route now has 3 bolts (some pro at start needed) No anchor

Glory Rock

Bartlett p. 54 Vogel p. 136
Glory Road 5.11d
5 bolts, 1 FP (No anchor)

Dihedral Rock

Bartlett p. 55 Vogel p. 136
How 'Bout it 5.10+
6 bolts (some gear needed)

Pep Boys Crag

Bartlett p. 56 Vogel p. 135
We Must, We Must, We Must Improve Our Bust 5.11b/c
4 bolts
Flim Flam Man 5.11c **
3 bolts (Anchor)

Intersection Rock

Bartlett p. 58-62 Vogel p. 183-187
Filet of Sole 5.11d*
3 bolts
Shauna Grant 5.10+
4 bolts (Anchor)
Trapeze 5.11/5.12 **
bolts (no anchor)
Huevos 5.11d **
7 bolts (crack at start) (Anchor)

Old Woman

Bartlett p. 62-65 Vogel p. 188-189
Chongo Route ( AKA Buttered Croissant) 5.11b/c 3 bolts (start on Judus; needs pro)
Church Bazaar 5.10+*
3 bolts
Hintertoiser Traverse 5.10c*
3 bolts
Bridwell/Sustad 5.11a/b
bolts and some pro needed
The Cavity 5.11d **
bolts, some pro needed
Sexy Grandma 5.8/5.9**
Bolts, Fp (anchor) QD's only
Bandsaw 5.10c R*
Bolts, FP (run out) Is often top roped off of the Sexy Grandma anchors

The Blob

Bartlett p. 65-69 Vogel p. 192-194
Death Flake 5.11 PG
2 bolts
Junior 5.10c PG
2 bolts (run out)
Papa Woolsey 5.10b**
six bolts (No anchor)
Im Not Afraid Anymore 5.11b PG
3 bolts (run out) (anchor)
A Walk on the Beach 5.4
3 bolts (slings for anhcor)
Use it or Loose It 5.10 c/d PG
Dialing For Ducats 5.10b PG
2 bolts (run-out)

The Wall

Bartlett p. 71-73 Vogel p. 199
Chalk Up Another One 5.9 **
5 bolts (crack at top)
Pumping Ego 5.10b PG*
4 bolts

Chinmey Rock

Bartlett p. 73-75 Vogel p.200-201
Twisted Crystal 5.11b
3 bolts on dike
Break Dancing 5.11a
3 bolts
Pinched Rib 5.10b**
2 bolts No anchor
Camouflage 5.12c *
4 bolts to anchor
Blind Ambition 5.11a*
4 bolts to anchor

Back Loop Routes

Bartlett p. 75
Tyrannosaurus Rex 5.9
2 bolts on a dike (No anchor)
Pyrannosaurus Next 5.10b
2 bolts (no anchor)

Potatoe Head

Bartlett p. 75-76 Vogel p. 206
Masachoism 5.8
3 bolts (no anchor)

Cyclops Rock

Bartlett p. 77-78 Vogel p 204-206
Slim Jim 5.10c PG
3 bolts (no anchor)
Thin Red Line 5.12R
2 bolts (run-out)
Surface Tension 5.10d PG/R*
4 bolts
Dinodamage 5.11-*
bolts, FP, and some gear needed (No anchor)
OFficial Route of the 1984 Olympics 5.10+ PG**
bolts (No anchor)
New Years Day 5.10b/c PG
bolts, FP, some gear needed (No anhco
Grey Cell Green 5.11-*
4 bolts (anchor)

Pee Wee Rock

Bartlett p. 79 Vogel p. 207
The Oui-Oui 5.10+*PG
(run out)
Pee wee's Piton 5.10a*
Bolts , 1 FP (Anchor)
Reverend Dick Shook 5.10b
bolts, FP (a 4" cam comes in handy ) (No anchor)

X Factor Dome

Bartlett p. 81 Vogel p. 139
Death Before Lycra 5.10a
3 bolts (No anchor)
Max Factor 5.11d**
5 bolts Bartlett Supp. p. 132

Hot Tub Formation/Steve Canyon Outside West

Bartlett p. 86 Vogel p. 208-209
Elexir 5.10c**
bolts to anchor (One small TCU optional)
Amanda 5.9**
bolts to anchor (Some Gear needed)
Blake 5.10-*
bolts to anchor (Some gear needed)

Steve Canyon Sidwinder Wall

Bartlett p. 89-90 Vogel p.212
King Pin 5.11a/b PG/R*
3 bolts (Anchor)
Diamondback 5.10c/d PG/R **
5 bolts (Anchor)

Hitman Rock

Bartlett p. 91-92 Vogel p. 214
Sniper 5.11**
3 Bolts (Anchor)

Patagonia Pile

Bartlett Supp. 2004 p. 134 Vogel p. 217
Shirt For Brains (AKA Wet Day) 5.11c**
3 bolts
Jugline 5.11c
5 bolts (anchor)

Wall of Biblical Fallacies

Bartlett p. 95 Vogel p. 218
Blood of Christ 5.11d/12a ***
3 bolts, 1 fixed copperhead (anchor)
Burning Bush 5.12d PG
2 bolts (anchor)

Rollerball

Bartlett p. 96 Vogel p. 219
Rollercoaster 5.11c**
8 bolts (anchor)
Bamboozler 5.11b** PG

Rock Hudson

Bartlett p. 97 Vogel p. 223
Stand and Deliver (AKA Spanish Bombs) 5.12a PG
7 bolts

Dinosaur Rock

Bartlett p. 98 Vogel p. 221
Goolabonga 5.10b*
4 bolts (crack at the bottom needs pro)

Peyote Cracks Formation

Bartlett p. 99-100 Vogel p. 225
When You're a Poodle 5.11a PG/R
2 bolts (run-out)
Rastafarian 5.12d/13a***
4 bolts (anchor)
The Watusi 5.12b/c PG
3 bolts (anchor)
Dial Africa 5.12b/c ***
3 bolts (anchor)
Apartheid 5.12a/b ***
4 bolts (anchor)
Buffalo Soldier 5.12b/c *
4 bolts (anchor)
Handy Gland 5.9/5.10-*
2 bolts, gear need at bottom (no anchor)
Take the Pain 5.13b**
4 bolts (no anchor)
Kalkowski Crack 5.10+*
1 bolt, 1 FP, crack pro needed at top (anchor)

Dutzi Rock

Bartlett p. 101 Vogel p.222
Suzie's Lip Cheese 5.9
4 bolts (no anchor)

Aussie Snack Foods

Bartlett p. 102 Vogel p. 229
Stoned Iguana 5.10+
3 bolts
Lollygobbleblissbombs 5.11a PG
3 bolts
Iced Vo-Vo's 5.11b*
5 bolts (height dependent)

Rusty Wall

Bartlett p. 102 Vogel p. 229
Slapshot 5.12b/c**
3 bolts (bolts on top)
Finish What you Started 5.11c/d *
3 bolts (crack at start)