Climbs
- Step n' Out 5.10 PG *
There are 2 bolts on top; one of the bolts seems a bit wiggly. There is a good crack above Double Trouble. With a long extension, you can use the bolts and the crack for both Step n' Out and Double Trouble. Med. to XL cams for the crack( The right one is the one that takes the good pro).
- Double Trouble 5.10a (TR)
Anchor same as Step n' Out.
- Mad Race 5.4
Just before the top of the crack, there is a spot for small to medium cams, but the rope will be laying in the crack. Once on top, there is a crack system back and left and with an extension, you could set up a TR out of the Mad Race crack.. Med. to XL cams.
- Fluff Boy 5.8
No Anchor on top. It's hard to set up a top/bottom belay on this one. Go back and right to the 2 cracks behind the Belay Girl bolts. Again, use the right (better) crack, and sit and belay on top... You will be off to the side of your anchor. Small to XL cams.
- Belay Girl 5.10c *
Belay Girl has 2 bolts on top. One of the bolts is a little wiggly, so you can/want to back it up with an extension from cracks behind (small to XL cams ..use the right/better crack system).
- Riff Raff Roof 5.10a/b PG
The rock is a bit rotten at the top of this climb (anchors on your right), so be careful. There is a slanting crack on the right wall, which looks best, and if you are good at threading, there is a "secret" thread tunnel-through off right too. Small/med cams, slings, cordelettes, etc.
- Bombay 5.8 PG
Traverse in from the right (again), to a good ledge. There is a horizontal crack above the ledge, and about 20 feet down from the top of the crag. Med cams.
- Calcutta 5.8
Squeeze through from the right...(tight squeeze), to the top of a pedestal. (which is about 4' down). You have all sorts of options. Small stoppers, cams, vertical and horizontal cracks,. Don't use the pedestal itself; it's just a tall boulder sitting there. Use cracks above the pedestal. Med to XL cams.
- Left V Crack 5.11b R *
Large cams with extensions on either side . There's a little chimney/passage to get to placements on the left. Large cams, extensions, combination.
- Right V Crack 5.10a ***
This is a very popular climb (lead and TR), and an excellent climb, too. Hard for 5.10a. At the top of the climb, there is a chimney/niche area. Be careful getting there; there is an exposed 4th class move (wear rock shoes?). There are boulders to tie off, pinches, cracks (small to large cams), all sorts of stuff. Cordelettes/slings/extensions needed.
- Facer to Face 5.11c (TR) *
Same set-up as Right V Crack.
- Linda's Crack 5.2
Same as Linda's Face. Keep rope out of crack. (best off right).
- Linda's Face 5.6 PG/R
Med to large cams and extension in big boulders about 15' back, plus you can use horizontal cracks off left (large to XL cams).
- Chockstone Chimney 4th class
Pinches in boulder back about 15' from the edge. Med to XL cams. Cordelettes/extensions too.
- Tight Shoes 5.7 R
Large to XL cams on ledge about 4' from the top, or extensions with med to XL cams from over the top and back in boulders.
- Double Crack 5.3 *
Keep rope out of the crack? Large to XL cams in the horizontal on the shelf about 4' from the top, or med to XL cams and extension from over the top and back in the boulders.
- Up to Heaven 5.8 R/X
There is a shelf about 4 feet from the top. Large/XL cams, or over the top with extension from med to XL cams. You can also get med/large cams in vertical cracks just near the very top.
- Toe Jam Express 5.3
Extension plus med/large cams. Once again, put rope a bit to the side so it doesn't get caught in the crack.
- Steady Breeze 5.7 X
Hang anchor over the edge a bit for less rope drag. Extensions plus med/large cams back in the boulders.
- S. O. B. 5.6
Med/large cams with extension. Don't set up in crack but to the side (left probably better). Keep rope out of crack.
- Morning Warm-Up 5.10a X
From the top.. get a 40' extension from big boulders way back. med. to large cams.. Tie off whole boulders too? Use a couple of long extensions, and hopefully the extension won't roll on you.
- Afternoon Shakedown
5.11a X Same as Morning Warm-Up (long extensions)
- Gotcha Bush 5.4 X
(Same as Right N Up)
- Right N Up 5.8 X
Here are 2 suggestions. Climb down to a shelf 10' down Donna T's Route. Reach left in a horizontal crack on summit cap with some large to XL cams. From the top, get a 40' extension from the big boulders way back. Med to large cams or tie off big boulders too.
- Donna T's Route 5.5
Don't use the crack of Donna T's at the top; it's best to climb down Donna T's a bit (10') to a shelf. There you can get med/large cams in the horizontal summit cap crack.
- Big Step 5.8 X
Scramble down Donna T's (careful), about 10' to a shelf. There is a horizontal crack which takes med/large cams.
- Out of Step 57 R
Scramble down Donna T's (careful) a bit to summit cap crack. Med/large cams.
