Quail Springs Picnic Area (AKA Trashcan Rock)

Vogel, P31-33; Vogel (Classic Rock), P11-13; Bartlett (Lost Horse), P15-17

return to topropes...

Quail Springs Picnic Area is one of the most popular rocks in the whole park.  The park service discourages large groups at here and has asked the guide services to teach beginning classes elsewhere. Keep in mind that it can be very crowded. 

Location: 6.2 miles south from the west entrance station on the south side of the road. 3.2 miles north from Hidden Valley Campground.		Quail Sprongs
    Positives
  1. Close to road
  2. Large number of beginner and moderate routes
  3. Ample parking, restrooms, and picnic tables
  4. Easy to set up topropes
  5. Fun climbs for all ages
    Negatives
  1. Often crowded and noisy
  2. Sometimes occupied by large groups or classes
  3. No wilderness feeling, lots of pavement
  4. Cold on winter mornings, hot on summer afternoons
  5. Outhouse smell can waft
Quail Springs

    Climbs
  1. The Trough 5.0
    (This climb is located on the far left; usually has no one on it. It can easily be set up with a double runner, cordelette or a long sling tied around a large chock stone at the top of the crack.)
  2. Karpkwitz 5.6
    (This climb and the next can be set up with the same top rope anchors, use wide cams.)
  3. B-3 5.3
    (Remember the anchor is off to the side of the climb, so you should use a directional piece at the top of this crack. A number 1 camalot or equivalent should do the trick.)
  4. Profundity 5.10+
    (Small or medium cams in the horizontal at the top of the slab. This anchor can also be used for the above climb.)
  5. B-2 5.2, Tip Toe 5.7, B-1 5.1
    (There are lots of options for these three climbs. At the top of B-2 on the right, in the summit cap, there is a dike where you can place large cams to set the anchors. Under the summit cap you can place another anchor to top rope Tip Toe and B-1. Clip the bolts on Tip Toe for directionals. Be careful not to swing over into B-2 because this could result in a serious back or head injury. Place directionals, wear a helmet, be safe and sober.)
  6. Walkway 5.3, Baby-Point Five 5.8x, Tulip 5.6R, Bimbo 5.10aR/X
    (There is a good place to set small to medium cams in the right side of the summit cap. These four climbs can all be climbed on the same anchor, with the exception of Walkway. These are all dangerous leads so they are probably best TR'd.)
  7. Eschar 5.4
    (Med/large cams just below the summit. Be careful on this one. It leans a lot, so there is potential for a big swing. Not a very good top rope choice.)
  8. History 5.11a
    (There is a large block at the top to tie off. Use an extender over the edge with a long runner.)
  9. Cranny 5.8 PG
    (Two cracks on top, med to large cams. Try to hang the TR over the steep part to reduce rope drag.)
  10. Bloodymir 5.9PG
    (Not a good TR, traverses too much.)
  11. Black Eye 5.9PG/R
    (Nothing on top. Anchors would have to be extended way out, why bother?)
  12. Simpatico 5.1PG
    (same as above.)
  13. Eye Sore 5.1PG
    (There is a large block that you could tie off with a cordellete or a long sling.)
  14. Eye Strain 5.2PG
    (MORE BIG STUFF!!!!)
  15. Filth 5.8R), Filch 5.6PG
    (Large boulder/chockstones. Tricky to set up without shredding your rope.)
  16. Ripper 5.11- v2
    (This is most often done as a boulder problem. It's high... difficult and tricky. Bring a pad and a first aid kit to patch yourself up after the gritty crack.)
  17. Wallaby Crack 5.8
    (You should pass on this one as it jogs way right at the top.)
  18. Hermanutic 5.10d PG/R
    (Wide crack behind the summit block thingy.... located a bit right of the actual climb. Make sure your rope hangs over the top or you will destroy your rope.)
  19. Butterfly Crack 5.11b
    (Large cams below summit... be careful, have the rope hanging over the edge.)
  20. Mr.Freeze 5.12)(TR
    (Large cams behind flake/block.)
  21. Left Sawdust Crack 5.10d PG, Right Sawdust Crack 5.8/5.9
    (Small to large cams in a double crack system. Watch for rope drag.)