Climbs
- 3rd class It
5.8 Use the top exit crack for pro (large cams), and have a rope hanging to the side of the crack a bit. This keeps the rope out of the crack and is more directly above the bottom section of the climb.
- DOA 5.9 R/X
At the top is a ledge with a horizontal (med to large cams), and behind this about 3-4' are more cracks (better) med-large cams.
- Bouncer
Crack at top. (large cams )
- Brimstone Stairway 5.1 R *
Just when the dike reaches a ledge, there are cracks on either side (and behind too). med-large cams. I would not use parts of the blocky dike, as they looKed like they might come loose.
- Deadheads 5.4 PR/R
Top of the climb is a ledge. Behind is a very large boulder . You could tie off this boulder with a very long piece of rope. Also some med-large cams can be placed around in various cracks and horizontals too.
- Flies in the Wound 5.7*
At the top of the climb, there is a left leaning crack/ramp. (small-med-large cams).
- Hillside Strangler 5.4
Top of chute is excellent obvious horizontal (small to med cams).
- Unnamed 5.11a
This pillar is narrow so make sure you set up a top rope that won't roll off the pillar to one side. Probably best to get an anchor (same as Hillside or Disapperaring Belayer) and sit on top and belay. The climb is hard, so your chances of falling are very real.. Do the right thing.
- Disappearing Belayer 5.7 PG
I would use cracks down Hillside Strangler chinmey aways, in combination with cracks on top and right of Disapperaring Belayer (large cams) Just keep in mind where the climber will go if he/she falls. Don't want anyone swinging into Be Wary corner (ouch!). Keep rope above climber with extensions.
- Be Wary 5.3
Horizontals at top of climbing section (mostly large cams) .
- Ambulance Driver 5.1
Climb goes to a ledge. Pop up one more ledge to the curving horizontal (small - large cams).. just below a bush.
- Mymecocystus Ewarti 5.4
Horizontal at the end of the climbing. Watch out for sand in the horizontal and place the cams in the parallels, not the flared sections of crack.
- Moriture Te Salutamus 5.9 PR
At top of climb is a ledge. Horizontal by your feet is too dirty. Crack on the left (good, med-large). Extend anchor just at the top of the crack. There are big boulders to ties off ; make sure they don't move.. pick the big ones!
- Till Death Do Us Fart 5.10c/d PG
Lots of horizontals; most are flared , dirty, sandy, small, or seams. Carefully pick good ones, use alot of pieces; make it bomb-proof!
- A Last Cigarette, Senior? 5.9
This is the only climb which goes near the summit of Morbid Mound. The last part of the climb is a steep hand crack. You could put cams in this part (med-large cams) and have them hanging down.