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Too crowded at the Atlantis Wall? Already done all the Atlantis stuff? Looking for something new?..Try the Alanis (as in Alanis Morisette). Here are over a dozen more climbs for you. To get to the top to set up Top ropes, scramble up the right side to the top. The Alanis Wall is the Wall directly behind the Atlantis Wall. It is east facing and shady most of the time (cold in winter..). There are no fixed anchors, fixed pins, bolts on the climbs or on top....all climbs are soloed , led trad, or top roped. I've done the climbs; they are fun, and you can tick off a bunch fairly quickly (to get to that 1000 route local status!). With more ascents, they will clean up and get even better..(not that they are THAT good to begin with...). If you are looking for 5 star mega-classics, you won't find them here. If you want to tick routes, climbs rocks, and hang with your homeys, you are at the right place! (Don't be a route snob...).If you are setting top ropes, remember, that ALL top rope anchors have to be BOMBPROOF. Think overkill, and be smart and safe. Enjoy.
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Alanis Wall
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Climbs
- Uninvited 5.5
Don't set the belay where the climb ends; go one shelf higher and back about 15' to a horizontal crack with a very large boulder. Small -large cams
- Bent Gate 4 U 5.6
There is a wide vertical crack at top (large cams) Also a horizontal on the right (small to med cams).
- Unsent 5.10a
Horizontal crack at base of large boulder. on left, XL cams, on the right(crawl back) med- large cams.
- Jagged Little Phil 5.6
Small to large cams in horizontal of large boulder.
- Hand in My Pocket 5.8
Use the big boulder. (horizontal under it). Small to large cams. Big stoppers, about 10' back. Extend over the edge.
- Spank U 5.6
Same as hand in my Pocket.
- Hands Clean 5.6
There are a bunch of big boulders on top , aways back. Be careful to use ones that don't move, and make sure whatever you use, you back it up with more boulders, pieces, etc. Think overkill with top rope anchors. Use extensions and cordelettes to get over the edge.
- Excuses 5.5
There are all those big boulders at top. I stood on the big one that looks sort of like a mushroom, walked a long piece of rope around it, and extended it just to the top of the climb. It's a tiny bit off to the right.
- Spineless 5.7
On top is a cap rock... horizontal underneath, and it also has 2 vertical cracks through it too...use these and equalize.
- Alanis More Upset 5.8
Use the horizontal cap rock and the vertical crack in the cap rock too.. you could ( I suppose ) tie off the whole cap rock (it's big!), or go over the top and use the horizontal on the back of the cap too.
- Sister Blister 5.2
tie off huge block on top. You could also use the horizontal at the very end of the cap rock.
These next 4 routes are left of the above routes.
- Chicks with Dicks 5.4
On top there are many cracks going from the top of the climb on back... Med-large cams. Extend over the edge.
- Chicks with Attitudes 5.5
At top of the climb is a chute/depression; there is a boulder in this depression;... we used the cracks on either side of the boulder (small to med cams). The boulder seemed to be strong (at least it was for us!).
- 4th class chimney
( We used this for a descent )
- Chicks for Chicken 5.6
Horizontal crack on right. Med - large cams
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