San Bernadino Mountains

San Bernardino Mountains

Climbing in the San Bernardino Mountains is fantastic. If you live in L. A. , this is your backyard and your home crags. There are many little cool areas spread throughout the San Bernardino Mountains. There is no one main area, but I guess the Holcomb Valley area is probably the main and most popular area. All the climbing is on granite. The climbing has been the playground for the locals for many years, and just recently many Southern California "city folk" have discovered just how wonderful the climbing is. Most of the climbing routes are short (under 50'), and some of the rock is less than perfect, but many of the best climbs are very, very good. It's a fun place to explore, discover, and climb at. I love going up there on a hot summer day. When it's 105 degrees in Joshua Tree, it can be nice and cool up in the mountains, which I find quite refreshing. Even though there are a lot of people who live and recreate in the San Bernardino Mountains, the climbing areas are never what you would call crowded, and most of the more obscure areas you will probably have to yourself. Go see for yourself; the climbing in the San Bernardino Area RULES! The locals are friendly, motivated, and talented climbers too. Brad Singers excellent guidebook "Hidden Treasure" will take you to all sorts of cool places , and help you find your "treasures". For those interested in joining the real true locals (They are a wild and fun group ), look into joining The Rim Of The World Climbing Club; they have excellent club trips, wild parties, travel all over, and accommodate the needs and desires of climbers at all levels, from beginner to world class. (I'm not much of a group person, but I am a member of this club; it's fun, informative, and I want to support this excellent organization. They have trips and functions that are family orientated too, and with 3 kids now, this is an opportunity to combine the outdoors stuff with the family stuff too.) Explore, and you will find the Hidden Treasures too.

Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Holcomb Valley Pinnacles , near Big Bear Lake in the San Bernardino Mountains, is one of Southern California's best sport climbing areas. It's located in a beautiful pine forest in an isolated but easy to get to area. There are over 200 routes, and the route total increases each year, as more and more areas and crags are discovered and developed. Chris Miller, from 5.10, has spearheaded many of the new routes. I have been climbing here many times, and I always have a great time and find the climbing excellent. On weekdays, you might see a party or two, or you might have the area to yourself. On the week-ends, there are usually other climbers around, but I have yet to see the area crowded. At 7,500 above sea level, the area is a summer area, and even though days get quite warm, you can usually find shade and there is often a mountain breeze. If you haven't been here yet, go and enjoy, It's a fantastic place to visit and climb.

Fisherman's Buttress

Near the actual dam of Big Bear Lake is a roadside crag called Fisherman's Buttress. There are a few sport climbs and a few crack climbs; about 1/2 day's worth of climbing. Combine this with a bike ride and some shopping, and you have a wonderful day in the mountains. One of the crack climbs is pretty fun and of quality.

Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles

Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles is in a fantastic, isolated wilderness area in the San Bernardino Mountains. There are lots of climbs and pretty much no people. The reason there are no people is because you have to hike in aways. For years this beautiful area was almost the private reserve of only a handful of locals because nobody else had any information about this area. Now with Brad Singer's new "Hidden Treasures" guide, the word is out, and still you will rarely see others here. The area is at 5,000-6,000 feet so it does get cold in the winter, and very hot in the summer. This transitional zone has both the plants and animals found in the mountains and the desert. There are close to 500 routes here today. It is best to go with someone familiar with the place for your first visit, as it is easy to get lost. The formation called " The Bong", is one of the better looking formations. I have visited this area before and was quite impressed. Treat yourself to a visit.

Deep Creek

Climbing above water is always exciting. Deep Creek Narrows, near the town of Running Springs, has some very cool climbs above ponds of water. The thought of falling off a climb into water, though an unpleasant thought, is better than the thought of falling off a climb and landing on rocks or solid ground. Deep Creek is also a " local" hang and party spot, and on a fine summer day, you can usually find others there hanging and swimming. I believe more people go there to swim and party, but it's not unusual to find others there climbing. Deep Creek is definitely worth a visit. There are only a handful of climbs here.

Green Valley Lake

We spent a day at Green Valley Lake (Untch Rock Area). We did nine climbs and had a fun day. We were the only ones there that day, and we appreciated the short approaches, as it was a very hot September day. I lost my watch there, so keep your eyes peeled. The San Bernardino Mountains have many very good crag areas. This is one of them. This was the last crag my wife Andrea climbed at before she found out she was pregnant with our first son Beck. After that , she has dedicated herself to being a full time mom, and will be a part -time climber when the kids get a bit older.

Keller Peak

Keller Peak was one of Southern California's first sport crags. It is located near the town of Running springs. There are short climbs all along the Keller Peak Road on small cliffs and boulders, but most of the visitors go to the Hungover Wall, which is the steep sport Wall. Most of the climbs are difficult on the Hungover Wall (Too difficult for me). There is primitive camping allowed in the area too. Keller Peak is a cool place to visit for a day or two. I'm not so interested in the hard sport climbs, but exploring the moderate stuff located throughout the forest.

Castle Rock

Located on the South Shore of Big Bear lake, this is one of the largest crags in the San Bernardino's, at over 100 feet. The climbing is limited, but excellent. There are a bunch of beginner and intermediate climbs and some harder stuff as well. There is a 5.10c hand crack there (Castle Crack) that is as good as any 5.10 crack I've been on. The Castle Crack alone is worth the trip to this crag. It is one of the best crack pitches in the San Bernardino Mountains, and not to be missed. This crag can get busy on a nice , sunny summer weekend, and there are only so many climbs here. The approach is not too long, but up a steep trail. This area is visited by climbers and hikers as well. Go visit this crag; you'll have a great day out craggin'.