Todd Gordon
to Todd's ScrapbookOne of Joshua Tree’s most prolific new route activists has to be T. Gordon. For years, Gordon held the record for most climbs put up in the Park, but in recent years, new-route masters Al Bartlett and Tucker Tech have dethroned him. Now he sits solidly in the number three position. Gordon is probably most well known as the proprietor of the internationally known (now defunct) Gordon Ranch, a climber’s refuge which sheltered climbers for over a decade.
photo© Greg Epperson
Todd first climbed in 1972 and started climbing at Joshua Tree in 1976. Coming on the scene at the tail end of the Stone Master era, he and his small group of friends started systematically ticking off routes. His curious nature led to a long string of ascents and first ascents that continues to this day. Most of them are safe with either decent natural pro or adequate bolts. All of his first ascents were put up on lead, and with only a few exceptions, all were done without inspection or power drills. Gordon was the first climber to climb over 100 routes in a day, and held the record for a while until the hungry Charles Cole ticked 119. He’s also climbed extensively in the southwest desert, and is very close to climbing his 100th desert spire.
His dedication to adventure and climbing has given him many wonderful experiences, and includes many trips exploring most major climbing areas in the US, and excursions to Europe, Asia, South America and Australia..
Gordon recently married Andrea Tomaszewski, another climber and adventuresome soul, so the future looks full of more adventures. He presently teaches in Yucca Valley, still lives at the now closed Ranch, and enjoys mountain biking and music. He’s also the CEO of this website.