Alan NelsonAlan Nelson was one of the most active climbers in California in the 70’s and 80’s. His many first ascents in Tuolumne Meadows and Joshua Tree are well known, and his bold on-sight solos of first ascents seemed to push lady luck to the limits.Nicknamed “The Kook” or “The Space Cowboy”, Alan’s new routes at Joshua Tree are still popular today. Many or most of his climbs were done of the lead, on sight and with ¼” bolts. He later went back and replaced all of his ¼” bolts with stronger 3/8” bolts, which is a testament to his dedication to being a responsible climber who thinks of others. Alan also kept detailed and accurate notes, which he shared with the climbing magazines and the climbing community as underground guides. His rare underground Tuolumne guide was, at the time, the guide to have to the Meadows. His sometime habit of top-roping leadable climbs was thought curious by some, but just part of his appetite for new rock. Alan moved to Colorado where he continued to consume rock. I do believe he still is an active climber and part of today’s climbing community. His drive and motivation left an imprint on climbing and his routes are still quite popular. Maybe you’ve been on some of Alan’s great routes’ try Silent Scream 5.10a 1982, 29 Palms 5.11+ 1981, Alf’s Arête 5.11- 1987. |