Wonderland Sport Routes 

The Wonderland of Rocks is my favorite place to climb in the Park. Many of the formations in the Wonderland are large, impressive, and beautiful. The Grey Giant, The Astrodomes, Mongolia, Disneyland Dome, Diarrhea Dome; these are some of the Park's largest and most inspirational formations. Spires , dike traverses, soaring cracks, wonderful face climbs.....and all in a quiet, secluded, wilderness setting. Some of the climbs are far from the road and trailhead, which for some is pain, and for others a delight. Many a wild adventure can be had in the Wonderland of Rocks. Some of Randy Leavitt's hard climbs in the Wonderland are awesome masterpieces, the Astrodome routes are some of the best in Southern California, and the Mongolia routes are the best moderate sport routes in the Park. Maybe being "Lost in the Wonderland" ain't' all that bad a thing? There are many, many sport climbs in the Wonderland. Remember that Joshua Tree Sport climbs are not like Las Vegas Gallery climbs; they can be run-out, scary, dangerous, and often need supplemental gear. Many of these climbs are in very remote places, so a rescue could be time consuming, costly, and dangerous to the SAR people. Many of these "sport" climbs you need to set your own anchor (yikes!) Don't go up on these climbs with only a rack of quick draws, until you are SURE that's all you will need. Remember, that the information on this website could be inaccurate, wrong, or just plain ol' fashion lies. Climb at your OWN risk, use your OWN judgment, and, for Pete's sake, wear a condom. North Wonderland book references are to Bartlett Wonderland, the old Vogel Guide, and the NEW Vogel West Guide, ( So you best have or go out NOW and get all the books you need ).

 

Gordo's Picks 

Noobie Wankers Entry Level Climbs

Outward Bound Slab 5.8*
Keep the Worm Firm 5.7*
Cactus Challenge 5.8*
Willard 5.8*
Mongolia Sport Routes 5.8-5.10-***
Pork Circus 5.4*
Schwee 5.8*
 

Standard Affair Stuff for the Solid Leader

Flame-On Rad Hard Shit

Arms are for Hugging 5.11a**
Tail Gunner 5.11b ** (Some gear needed)
Genghis Khan 5.11b **
Adam Smasher Routes 5.9-5.12a**
The Bates Motel 5.12 **
Pumping Hate 5.12 ***
Ivory Tower Routes 5.13 b/c**
War Path 5.12c PG***
Hydra 5.13c***
Middle Age Savage 5.12b***
The Gunslinger 5.12b PG ***
The Manly Dike 5.12a ***
Hot Pants 5.13a***
Crimping Lessons 5.11c**
Podium (Zen/Karma 5.12**)

North Wonderland

Parking Lot Rocks

Dichotomy 5.10b

2 bolts on a dike

Reggie Dome

The Mole 5.10c/d**

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Fender Bender 5.7 PG/R

2 bolts (anchor)

No Parking 5.10b PG/R

3 bolts

Short Cut 5.10a*

3 bolts

Tender Flakes of Wrath 5.9 PG

2 bolts (crack at start)

Summer Delight 5.9 PG *

2 bolts (crack at finish ) anchor

Fresh Squeezed 5.10**

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Baby Tool Route 5.10d

bolts to anchor (Chopped?)

B-52 Rock

It's Not Brain Surgery 5.6 PG

1 bolt

Roam 5.10 a/b*

3 bolts on arête

Toxic Avenger 5.10d/5.11a PG

1 Fixed Copperhead, 2 bolts, crack finish

Romper Room 5.11a/b PG*

3 bolts (anchor) needs pro for upper dihedral

Brownie Girl Dome

Brown Sugar 5.11c**

5 bolts (some pro at horizontals)

Hole in the Wall 5.10c*

5 bolts (some pro)

Bobcat Rock

Bradley 5.9 PG

2 bolts (no anchor)

Patch Dome

Cat Walk 5.10a

7 bolts (anchor)

Unreported Rock

Butt Print 5.10b*

4 bolts to anchor

Point Break 5.10c/d*

3 bolts

The Seeitch

Al Dudes routes

Seitch Tactics 5.11b

6 bolts (some gear )

Outward Bound Slab

Outward Bound Slab 5.8 PG*

3 bolts (anchor)

Cool Dome

Stardust Memories 5.9*

5 bolts (anchor)

Hidden Dome

Ass Gasket 5.10- *

3 or 4 bolts (gear for horizontals) (sling on horn for anchor)

Libido Rock

Too Steep To Climb 5.11b

3 bolts (no anchor)

Women In Peril Face

Finger in a Blender 5.10-*

Bolts to anchor

Women In Peril 5.9+*

bolts to anchor a few pieces needed

Boogerhead 5.9*

Bolts to anchor a few pieces needed

Ellsmere Island

Arms are for Hugging 5.11a/b PG**

4 bolts (anchor on top)

Gilligan's Island

Gun for the Sun 5.10a*

4 bolts (last bolt has no hanger)

Hit it , Ethyl 5.8*

3 bolts (pro needed at start)

Roomis E. Gloomis 5.10d PG**

5 bolts

Teddy 5.9 PG**

2 bolts (crack start)

Pernicious Dome

Tail Gunner 5.11b PG**

FP and 5 bolts (Some pro needed at start)

Gourmet Sausage 5.7*

3 bolts (anchor)

The Skin Graft

Mission Bells 5.7 PG/R

2 bolts (gear needed at start)

The Techulator

Science Experiments You Can Eat 5.10a/b PG

2 bolts (pro at start)

Slow Mutants ** 5.11a PG

4 bolts

Spire Route 5.5

1 bolt (anchor on top) some gear needed

Chute to Kill 5.10c/d

3 bolts (flake , start need gear)

Mistaken Rock

Ben's Magic Weenie 5.10a*

bolts (some pro needed ) no anchor

The Black Tower

Maisy 5.7*

5 bolts and 1 FP (one or two pieces needed) 1 bolt anchor (There used to be a "fixed" stopper too)

Asia Fever Buttress

Asia Fever 5.7**

8 or 9 bolts (no anchor on top) rap station off to the left (this route was chopped; hopefully, it will be re-established.)

The Glass Onion

Abby the Scabby Tabby 5.10a

4 or 5 bolts to anchor (furthest left bolted route) Not in any guide

The Glass Onion 5.10b

6 bolts to anchor (Just right of Abby the Scabby Tabby)

Outer Mongolia

Genghis Khan 5.11b PG ***

4 bolts (some gear needed)

The Mongolia Lieback 5.12a PG **

4 bolt arête

Siberia

Irish Toothache 5.7**

1 FP and 3 bolts fixed pitons for anchor

Leon Redbone 5.10b PG *

bolts to anchor (run at start....can sling a plate or get a piece in) Not in Vogel West Located on far left side of walls, left of Love Gas

Bull With Gas 5.9**

2 FP and 7 bolts (anchor)

Love Gas 5.8**

3 FP and 7 bolts (anchor)

Yasmine Bleath 5.9**

9 or 10 bolts to anchor

Dos ChiChis 5.9***

2 pitches 8 bolts and 1 FP on 1st pitch, 5 bolts one 2nd. 3 single raps down.

Gandy 5.9*

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Binder 5.8**

6 bolts to anchor

Cross Roads Finish

(var. to top part of Binder) 6 bolts, 1 fp rap from slings on block

Toby 5.10-***

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Weo

Bolts and 2 FP to summit anchor (one bolt , 1 FP)

The Little Pigs

Pork Circus 5.4

2 bolts (Rt. of 1st Little Pig)

Hooter Rock

Earth and Sky 5.10d PG *

Reverend Blitzo's Hairless Boys Choir 5.8*

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Grinch Rock

The Grinche's Grin 5.10d*

4 bolts anchor is slings on block

Atom Smasher Boulders

Nuclear Arms 5.12a PG **

2 sets of Double bolts (anchor)

Atom Ant 5.11 c/d PG/R

3 bolts (anchor)

Gumshoe 5.11a PG*

4 bolts (anchor)

Ionic Strength 5.12a**

4 bolts (anchor)

Shin Basher 5.11c PG/R

1 bolt

Quantum Mechanics 5.11b PG/R

2 bolts

Isotop 5.9 PG*

2 bolts (anchor)

Wings of Wrath 5.11d*

3 bolts (anchor)

Timbuktu Towers

The Bates Motel 5.12a**

6 bolts on arête

Polytechnics 5.10d PG**

fixed copperhead and bolts (no anchor)

Pumping Hate 5.13a***

5 bolts (no anchor)

Psycho 5.10d PG/R

3 bolts

Ivory Tower

This Spuds for You 5.10c*

6 bolts anchors

Famous Potatoes 5.11c PG/R*

2 bolts anchors

The Powers That Be 5.13c ***

5 bolts anchors

Chain of Addiction 5.13c ***

9 bolts

Ocean of Doubt 5.13 b/c ***

anchor

La Machine 5.13d **

6 bolts

Superslab

Dimpled Chad 5.10c*

bolts to anchor

Mike Hunt 5.10-*

bolts, FP to anchor (piece or two needed at bottom and in flake) (anchor)

Keep The Worm Firm 5.8*

bolts to anchor

Cactus Challenge 5.8*

4 or 5 bolts to anchor (not in Vogel West or Bartlett Wonderland)

The Super Dome

Warpath 5.12c PG ***

(2 pitch) 7 bolts to anchor (or 4 bolts to anchor)

Sideburn 5.12**

4 bolts

Hydra 5.13c ***

9 bolts

Lion's Share 5.10c PG*

3 bolts

The Helmet

The Tomahawk 5.12a ***

2 pitches (Some gear needed on pitch 1) 7 bolts , 2 FP on pitch one 9 bolts on pitch 2

The Lynch Crag

Powered by Old English 5.11d ***

6 bolts (some gear needed) anchor on top

The Arrowhead

Firewater Chimney 5.10b***

6 bolts (anchor on top)

The Last Stand 5.12a***

10 bolts (anchor)

The Corrugated Wall

Eagle Talons 5.12a***

7 bolts (anchor)

The Slatanic Area

Witch Hunt 5.10b***

4 bolts (some gear ) rap off S. O. H. anchor

South of Heaven 5.12d ***

1 FP and 6 bolts (anchor)

Grey Giant

The DMB 5.9 R

3 bolts (anchor)

Jewel of Denial 5.9*

Anchor

Havy Meadow 5.10a/b

5 bolts anchor

Liver Brothers 5.8*

3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (On big boulder in front of Grey Giant) Not in any guide

Tombstone

Turtle Days 5.*

3 bolts

Andre the Giant 5.6*

4 bolts (rap from slings on boulder) Located on big face right of Turtle Days Maybe one piece down low. Not in any guide

The Fugitive 5.10d*

4 bolts (some pro)

Homestead Wall

Mercy Road 5.11a/b *

5 bolts

Looking for Mercy 5.11a/b*

5 bolts

Empty Street 5.10c/d*

4 bolts

South Wonderland

Red ,White, and Boys 5.9*

3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor >From Uncle Willie's, hike NE up wash for 5 min. Visible from Uncle Willies. (Obvious face up the wash at 1:00) Not in any guide

Tits on a Bull 5.11*

4 or 5 bolts on the buttress to 2 bolt anchor (a few pieces needed) Not in any guide Located on a large buttress left of Ash Gordon buttress

Fire Me a Burger Rock

Red Headed Stranger

3 bolts (some gear)

Cuddlebone Dome

Cuddlebone 5.7

3 bolts

Texas Big Hair 5.9

4 bolts

Foolproof Tower

Buford's House of Liver 5.11a PG*

South Astrodome

Naked Singularity 5.11 b/c PG**

9 bolts

Mamunia 5.13a** 2 pitches

13 bolts

My Laundry (pitch one) 5.9

5 or 6 bolts

Crimping Lessons 5.11c**

5 bolts (anchor)

North Astrodome

Figures on a Landscape 5.10 b/c PG/R

3 pitches 8 bolts (Some gear needed) Last pitch is all gear (Short crack pitch, hand size)

North Astrodome South Face

Lead us Not into Temptation 5.9*

6 bolts (anchors)

Life's a Pitch 5.12a*

8 bolts

Chute to Kill 5.10b/c *

6 bolts

South Astrodome, SW Face

Bozo Buttress 5.2

2 bolts

Mr. Lizard Meets Flintstone 5.6

5 bolts

Bozo's Raindance 5.11c

5 bolts (anchor)

Lenticular Dome

Unconscious Obscenity 5.9*

5 bolts (anchor)

Dazed and Confused 5.8/5.9 PG**

2 pitches (bolts)

Moonstone

The Beating Heart 5.9* (Direct 5.10-*)

Anchor under roof. Not in any guide

Unforeseen Dome

Red Hot Chili Pepper 5.11a PG

5 bolts

Nomad Dome

Ben 5.10b PG

4 bolts (Belay)

Willard 5.7 PG*

5 bolts, 2 pitches, some gear needed?

Final Furious Farsi 5.6

7 bolts (Joins Willard at belay pitch one)

Mesopotamia Dome

Mesopotamia 5.10b*

4 bolts

The Tea Bag 5.10c**

4 or 5 bolts (no anchor....slings on horns..) Not in any guide

Surprise Rock

Trembling Toes 5.9+*

9 bolts

Freak Brothers Dome

The Sound of One Hand Slapping 5.11c*

4 bolts

The Red Obelisk

Boogers on a Lampshade 5.10b PG

Bolts and a tied off horn anchors on top

Arête 5.11+/5.12-

3 bolts to anchor (Not in book)

Traverse 5.10+/5.11-

5 bolts to anchor (Not in book)

The Eifel Tower

Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee in September 5.9*

5 or 6 bolts to anchor This excellent route was chopped. A sad day for the rock and the climbing community.

Fat Freddie's Cat E. Face

Time Avenger 5.11b PG**

7 bolts (no anchor)

Pea Brain

Cactus Dog 5.10a*

5 bolts (anchor)

Joan Jetson 5.9 PG/R

2 bolts (anchor)

Spacely Sprokets 5.8/5.9 PG

4 bolts (anchor)

Duck Waddle Domes

Bridge-It-Bardot 5.10d PG*

4 bolts (crack at top)

Disneyland Dome SW Face

Mental Bankruptcy 5.10b PG*

2 pitches, 4 bolts to belay, easy off (either up or down)

Disneyland Dome So. Face

Brass Monkey 5.12

6 bolts (finish on crack, so bring gear, slings)

Walt's Frozen Head 5.10b PG

2 bolts (some gear?)

Thrutcher Dome Area

Life Without Principle 5.11b**

9 bolts (anchor)

Whales on Ice 5.10a PG

4 bolts (bolts on top)

Timber Dome

Timber 5.8+

2 or 3 bolts (slings to time off tree branch) anchor Located on E. Face of Big Boulder

Timber Wolf 5.9+

4 or 5 bolts (anchor) slings to tie off tree branches Start is same as Timber, but traverses left on dike.

Roundup Rock

Picasso Kokopelli 5.11b**

4 bolts (anchor)

The Training Ground

Where Rangers Dare 5.10a PG*

3 bolts (bolts on top)

Inauguron Dome

Tony Carbonie 2 pitches 5.10b**

Excellent Route (Chopped) Not in any guide

Mr. Simpkinton 5.8**

traverse bolts, FP (no anchor) (chopped) Not in any guide Both of these excellent routes were chopped. A sad day for climbing; the rock , and the climbing community suffer.

Diarrhea Dome

Manly Dike 5.12a PG***

11 bolts This climb has an aid start, which makes it 5.11- AO

Svapada 5.11b PG**

8 bolts (some pieces needed) Anchor (2 ropes to rap)

Owl Pinnacle

Broken Wing 5.10c

3 bolts

The Talon 5.12c

5 bolts

Mystic Cove

The Podium

Original Route 5.10b/c**

4 bolts (anchor)

Zen 5.12b**

4 bolts (anchor)

Karma 5.12d ***

7 bolts (anchor)

Hidden Wall

Skin Tight Mouse House 5.11d

7 bolts to anchor

Adder Dance 5.12c

7 bolts

Puff Adder 5.13a

9 bolts (anchor)

Garter Snake 5.10b

4 bolts (anchor)

Herpetologist 5.6

4 bolts (anchor)

Red Bluffs

Red Rain 5.13a

5 bolts (anchor)

Don Genero Boulder

Hot Pants

5 bolts (anchor)

The Cornerstone

Tsunami 5.10c/d*

5 bolts

The Refrigerator

The Refrigerator (Left side) 5.10b/c PG*

4 bolts (Anchor)

Wavecrest Rock

Night Trap (AKA The Sound of Waves) 5.11c**

5 bolts

Afro Blues Wall

Granny's Chin 5.11a

3 bolts, fixed RURP (no anchor)

Black and Blue 5.11b/c

7 bolts (bolts on top)

Laugh Rock

Schwee 5.9

3 bolts (anchor)

Need to Have a Word with Myself 5.11a PG

Trifling Rock

Bald Ambition 5.11a

2 bolts, 1 Fixed RURP

Trivial Pursuit 5.7 PG

2 bolts There are a couple of R. Collins routes right of Trivial Pursuit. Some have bolts, Some gear needed

Jedi Mimmster

5.8 2 bolts

Street Sweeper

4 bolts 5.11a

Radio Free Utah 5.10c

3 bolts

Flexable Rock

Eastern Blockhead 5.10b

3 bolts (anchor on top)

OB/GYN Dome

Particle Man (AKA Speculum Scrapings) 5.11b** 5 bolts, 1 FP

Mcleans's Gold 5.10a*

4 bolts (anchor)

Boys Just One Question (AKA Burn Bush) 5.9

crack (pro) and 4 bolts

Iguana Dome

Iquana Masters 5.10b *

6 or 7 bolts

Dhip 5.10d *

2 or 3 bolts Anchor This climb ends at a belay; it needs an 2nd pitch.

West World

Boot Hill 5.10a/b PG

(anchor)

Fear is Never Boring

5.12a PG

Mushroom Rock

The Recruit 5.10a*

3 bolts

The Sergeant 5.11c*

3 bolts, to 2 bolts anchor  

.....more info coming soon.....