Pinto Basin Sport Routes 

Pinto Basin has a wealth of wonderful sport climbs. Because of it's distance from Hidden Valley Campground and the "mainstream" climbing areas, it is thought of, by some, to be the "back-water obscure" area of the Park. Some of the rock, particularly around Jumbo Rocks Campground, has the big grains and many of the cracks have teeth like broken glass. Yeah, some of the routes have less than perfect rock, but some of the climbs are on near perfect rock too, and are as good as any climbs anywhere. Many of the vistas in Pinto Basin are open and the scenery is stark, wild, and stunning. Many of these climbs are in very isolated, beautiful, wilderness areas, and often times, you can climb all day without seeing another person. The sport climbs of Pinto Basin are awesome, wonderful, and climbing in the Pinto Basin is an experience not to be missed. In many ways, it's truly the heart and soul of the Park, and the Mojave Desert at it's finest. There are many, many sport climbs in the Pinto Basin. I personally love the Pinto Basin, and exploring for new and established climbs has to be one of my favorite things to do in the Park. Treat yourself to the excellent sport climbs of the Pinto Basin and you won't be disappointed.
 

Gordo's Picks (Some suggestions of quality routes which aren't too hard to find and very worth doing)

Noobie Wankers Entry Level Climbs

Celebrated Beast 5.8*
Pinky and the Brain 5.8**
Lucus Palucus 5.7 *
Bad Lieuteneut 5.7 *
Matt Gay 5.8 *
Lesbian Lust 5.9+ **
Black Rhino 5.9 *
Lukachukai 5.7*
Butterbag's Buttress 5.7 **
Safe Zone Spire 5.5 *
Water Babies 5.8*
Bird Eating Spider 5.8*


 

Rock Solid Starbuck's Lead Climbers

Hard Core Rock Stars

For Peter 5.11c**
Seizure 5.12 **
Cling or Fling 5.11*
Realm of the Flying Monkeys 5.11c*
Sonic Temple 5.11c **
That Old Soft Shoe 5.10d **
Count Dracula 5.10d **
Battle of Blood 5.11b/c *
On the War Path 5.11b ***
Heretic 5.13a**
Pope on a Rope 5.12d **
Preditor Tigress 5.11b **
Lee's Health Studio 5.11a/b **
 

Jumbo Campground Area

Halloweenis 5.10c *

bolts, fixed pins, (maybe a piece or two needed) No anchor

Zebra Cliffs

Up and Down 5.10a

3 bolts

Horse of a Different Color 5.10c/d PG

3 bolts to anchor

Pea Coat Sleave 5.10b*

6 bolts to anchor (maybe a piece needed at top)

Black Pearl 5.10a

4 bolts (anchor on top)

Kidney Boy 5.10a

4 bolts (anchor)

The Sand Truck 5.11b/c

3 bolts

Zebra Cliffs SW Side

Shaking Like a Leaf 5.8

2 bolts to anchor

Chimps and Cheetahs 5.10a/b

3 bolts to anchor

Desert Safari 5.11 b/c

4 bolts

Earth First Rock

Monkey Wrenchers 5.11

2 bolts (no anchor)

Nuclear Reactor Rock

Helicopter Memory Farts 5.9+

2 bolts (no anchor)

Corridor Face (N. Face)

Picture at an Exhibition 5.10a

3 bolts (no anchor)

Caesar's Palace

Pizza Pizza 5.8

3 bolts to anchor

Cowboy Rock

Otis 5.10b PG

4 bolts to anchor

Cunning Rock

Cunning Route 5.10a*

4 bolts

Wild Brew Yonder 5.10c PG*

3 bolts

Cunning Rock (NW Face)

Uncle Urnie 5.9*

3 bolts

Odd and Sods 5.9

4 bolts

Pope's Hat

British Bolt Fest 5.10 a/b

5 bolts

Heretic 5.13a**

7 bolts to anchor

The Popemobile 5.10b/c**

5 bolts (traverse off left, or go up past 1 more bolt.... grainy/run-out finish)

Pope on a Rope 5.12d**

8 bolts

Desert Storm 5.10a/b PG*

4 bolts

Tidy Bowl 5.10+ *

1 FP 4 bolts

Beam Aboard 5.9+ PG

3 bolts (anchor ) Bartlett p. 33 Vogel p. 450

Whispering Wall

Mother Board Breakdown 5.10c PG/R

9 bolts

Charlotte's Web 5.11a PG/R *

7 bolts (anchor)

Apathetic Rock

Sentimental Apathy 5.8

5 bolts (shaky anchor)

Lumber Jack 5.10b/c

2 or 3 bolts (climb tree to start)

Middle Creeper Rock

Irie Heights 5.10d/5.11a *

5 bolts

Hen House

El Pollo Loco 5.10c

5 bolts

Epperson Boulder

Epperson's Footprints 5.10a PG

3 bolts

Chicken Poop 5.8+*

3 bolt arête

Chicken Coop 5.10d*

3 bolts

Eggshell 5.8*

2 bolts (anchor)

John's Giggly Bum Cheeks 5.8+*

3 bolts (anchor?)

Fugly 5.10c

4 bolts (2 bolt anchor

Dr. Haney's Tool Shed (Not in any guidebook) Formations East of Hen House

Dr. Haney 5.8*

3 bolts (anchor)

Baby Tool 5.10b*

4 bolts (some gear at start) (anchor)

Bumbus Hell 5.9*

4 bolts (anchor)

Proper B. T. 5.10-**

bolts (anchor)

I'm Not a Doctor, But I'll Take a Look 5.7

2 bolts, (some gear needed at horizontals) No anchor

Split Rock Graceland

Dick Van Dyke (AKA Elvis is Everywhere) 5.10c **

4 bolts (anchor)

Pelvic Thrust 5.10c

3 bolts

Blue Suede Shoes 5.7 PG

2 bolts (anchor)

Grand Canyon (E. Wall, W. Face )

Punish the Mosquito 5.10 + PG

3 bolts (no anchor)

Kokopeli 5.10+ *

3 bolts (no anchor)

Bunking Broncos 5.10a PG

3 bolts (no anchor)

Grand Canyon Donkey Trail 5.10a PG*

4 bolts (Bartlett p. 42)

Gaines Route 5.11

bolts

Grand Canyon (W. Wall W. Face)

For Peter 5.11c PG**

bolts

Rubicon Area

Jump Start 5.10a PG*

2 bolts to dike (no anchor)

Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Jive at Josh 5.10b

3 bolts

Amphetamine Reptile 5.11a*

4 bolts

Total Generic Package (AKA Mr. Swing) 5.11c PG**

6 bolts

Seizure 5.12 **

5 bolts

Snake Pit

Pit Viper 5.11b**

4 bolts (anchor)

Isles in the Sky (NE Face )

Bees Knees 5.9

4 bolts

Dead Bees 5.9**

5 bolts (anchor)

Celebrated Beast 5.8+

bolts, FP (some gear needed)

Young Guns 5.11d PG**

5 bolts

Slam Dance 5.10c PG

3 bolts (anchor)

The Raven 5.8

3 bolts (rap station)

White Mamba 5.12b

5 bolts (anchor)

Isle in the Sky (SE Face)

Metabolic Frolic 5.9 PG*

3 bolts

Jingle Balls 5.10c PG

5 bolts

Pinky and the Brain 5.8**

bolts to anchor

Brit Corridor

Singletrack 5.9*

2 bolts (no anchor)

Lucus Palucus 5.7

5 bolts to anchor (one piece needed 1 1/2 inch)

Lively Up Yourself, Homer 5.10c*

4 bolts

Butt Nugget 2000 5.10c*

5 bolts (anchor)

Climg or Fling Corridor

Lost Boys 5.10d*

3 bolts (crack at top)

Say No to Jugs 5.11a

4 bolts (don't cheat with stem)

Cling or Fling 5.11a *

3 bolts

Overbolted Rock

Anybody Can Bolt 5.10a

3 bolts (anchor)

Are You Inexperienced 5.11c

3 bolts (anchor)

High Energy 5.10a

3 bolts (anchor)

Captain Safe 5.10a PG

2 bolts (anchor)

Boulevard of Dreams 5.10b

3 bolts (anchor)

Parking Lot Rocks

Bumpy 5.9

4 bolts (anchor)

Nuptial Sac 5.10+

bolts (One piece needed in middle hand section) bolted anchor

Potatoe Gun 5.10+/5.11-

Bolts to anchor (optional 3 1/2" cam at top)

Bolts with a Blast 5.10a PG

4 bolts Bartlett p. 50

Strip Search 5.10c PG

4 bolts (crack at top)

Bike Across America 5.10c

3 bolts

Porky's Excellent Adventure 5.8

2 bolts

Popsicle 5.11d PG*

3 bolts Bartlett p. 52 Vogel p. 456

West Tiers

The Patriot 5.10d PG

3 bolts

Smart Missle 5.9 PG*

2 bolts

Gaia 5.11b PG

2 bolts

Preditor Tigress 5.11b**

4 bolts (some gear)

Hot Dog in a Bun 5.10a*

4 bolts (no anchor)

Lee's Health Studio 5.11a/b**

3 bolts, FP, anchor

Scud Boulder

This Scud's a Dud 5.10d *

3 bolts

This Scud's For You 5.11a

3 bolts

Future Games Rock

Disappearing Act 5.10c/d PG**

4 bolts

Beluga Boulders (Top of hill above Bond Boulders)

Eat Beluga 5.9+*

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Bird Eating Spider 5.8*

3 or 4 bolts on arête (anchor)

Bond Boulders

Deep, Shallow , Twisted 5.10c

3 bolts (Bad bolt has been replaced) No anchor

The Iron Chief 5.9*

3 bolts (crack pro needed at top)

Bad Cop Rock

Wife Beater 5.7*

3 bolts (no anchor

Copulator 5.8*

bolts FPs (a piece or two needed) anchor on top

Bad Lieutenet 5.7*

bolts, FP anchor on top

Boulder One

Odd Job 5.10a

2 bolts

Matt Gay 5.8+ * 5 bolts

(anchor)

Live and let Die 5.10d PG*

3 bolts (anchor)

Diamonds are Forever 5.10d*

2 bolts on dike (anchor)

Boulder Two

Eva Las Vegas 5.10- **

bolts to anchor

R C A 5.10d PG**

bolts to anchor

Loose Man 5.9+

bolts to anchor

How Deep is Ben's Love 5.10c

bolts to anchor

Teflon Ron 5.8 PG

bolt, FP to anchor

Loveland Boulderfield

Tricky Move 5.10a PG

3 oblts

Forgotten Venture 5.10b

2 bolts

Lost Rock

Missing Persons 5.11c **

6 bolts

Destination Unknown 5.11d

4 bolts

Bandana Rock

Dark Ages 5.10a PG

3 bolts

Crocodile Rock

Claim Jumper 5.10d

3 bolts (crack at start)

Beak Boulders Rock

I'm Pregnant with Satan's Baby 5.10d/5.11a*

4 bolts

Sleek Beak 5.10d

3 bolts

Oz

Oz Rock

Toto's Canine Hot Lunch 5.8

2 bolts

Voodoo Dome SW Face

The Lollipop Guild 5.7

2 bolts

The Hourglass 5.10c

3 bolts

Ruby Slippers 5.10d/5.11a PG

3 bolts anchor on top

Witch Rock

Not in Kansas Anymore 5.9+

3 bolts

Wizard Rock

Guardian of the Gate 5.9+ PG

3 bolts

Munchkinland Crag

Robocop Meets the Munchkins 5.10a PG*

3 bolts (pro at start)

Over the Rainbow 5.10a/5.11a*

3 bolts

Toto Boulder

No Win (AKA Toto) 5.10+

2 bolts

Hawk Hatchery Area

Realm of the Flying Monkeys 5.11c

4bolts

Lions and Tigers and Bears 5.10a/b

3 bolts (crack at start)

Poppie Field Boulders

Oil My Joints 5.8/5.10c

2 bolts (5.8 if you bridge off boulder)

Boulder #3

Baum's Away 5.10a*

4 bolts

The Wiz 5.10d/5.11a

2 bolts (Height Dependent)

Off to See the Wizard 5.10b *

3 bolts

Poppie Field Wall

Opium Den 5.11b/c PG*

3 bolts

Oz Towers

Snake Bite 5.12 c/d*

4 bolts

Wicked Witchcraft 5.11c**

4 bolts

The Cowardly Lion 5.9 PG

(Needs piece for horizontal part way)

Emerald City

Sonic Temple 5.11c

5 bolts (anchor)

Yellow Brick Road 5.12 **

7 bolts

Is that a Munchkin in your Pocket 5.11b

(I believe this is a lead now) bolts

I'm Melting 5.12a**

3 bolts

Hollywood Boulders

Screen Test 5.11a PG

5 bolts

Sneek Preview

3 bolts

Dry Wallet, Wet Behind 5.10c**

7 bolts (anchor)

Miracle Mile Boulders

Walk of Fame 5.10d

3 bolts Anchor on top

Weenis Rock

Weenis de Milo 5.10c **

7 bolts, 1 FP anchor on top

Reflector Oven 5.10a PG

2 bolts

Hmmmmmm Boulder

Oh 5.8 PG

2 bolts anchor

Other 5.8+ 5.8+

3 bolts anchor

Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder and Vicinity

Lesbian Lust 5.9**

4 bolts anchor

Lesbian Lust Mirror 5.10-**

4 bolts anchor

Marsupial Lust

3 or 4 bolts to anchor 5.10b*

Godspeed 5.10a *

3 or 4 bolts (anchor)

The Tusk

Oatmeal Eating Aardvarks 5.7

3 bolts (some gear) no anchor

Black Rhino 5.9+*

4 bolts

Endangered Species 5.10c *

4 bolts

Poaching Ivory 5.11b *

3 bolts

Magic Mountain

Disposable Heroes (AKA Free Fall) 5.9

2 bolts

Jet Stream 5.7

2 bolts

I Eat Crayons 5.8

2 bolts (anchor ) Located on Elf's Hat

Futthead Rock

Desert Sensation 5.9 PG

3 bolts

Something Ladies Do 5.8

2 bolt

Iguana Tower

Reptilian Tendencies 5.11c/d **

6 bolts (crack start)

Safe Zone

Indian Head

May a Dick Grow out of Your Forehead 5.9+*

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Open Winfry 5.10d

bolts, FP to anchor

Lukachukai 5.7*

3 bolts (anchor)

Make a Joyful Noise to the Lord 5.9+*

3 or 4 bolts to anchor

Becky's Buttress Area

Becky's Buttress 5.9 PG*

4 bolts

Gravity Pirates 5.10+

bolts (crack at top?)

Tollakson's Tower

Farting Horse 5.10d

2 bolts

Belle Campground

That Old Soft Shoe 5.10d**

6 bolts

Count Dracula 5.10d PG**

3 bolts

Belly Dancer 5.10d PG*

bolts anchor on top

The Strange Attracter 5.12a PG

4 or 5 bolts (anchor)

True Grit 5.9

4 bolts (no anchor on top)

Yucca Bowl 5.6*

2 bolts

Bonnie Brae 5.7 PG

(some gear needed)

Bubba's Tourist Trap 5.9 PG

3 or so bolts

Sand in My Shoes (AKA Drill Dust) 5.9*

3 bolts

Short Cake 5.10a/b PG

2 bolts (anchor on top)

Louie Route 5.13*

bolts (anchor)

Half Rock

Vanishing Desert 5.8 PG

3 bolts (no hangers on bolts)

Ranger's in Space 5.11a/b

5 bolts (first 2 have no hangers....)

Global Warming 5.10/5.11

3 bolts (height dependent)

White Tank

Quaking Has-beens 5.9*

3 bolts

Torre Del Sol

Peckerwood 5.9*

4 bolts (No anchor)

Northern Lights 5.9+ PG/R*

3 bolts (crack at start)

Back Rocks

Shit, It's a Brit 5.7/5.8

4 bolts

The Saturn Boulder

The Maverick Boulder

Dr. Garlic Breath 5.10a PG/R

1 bolt (no anchor at top) Simul-rap to get off

Bovine Dome

Los Tres Bovines 5.10c PG/R

3 bolts (run out to first bolt)

Stirrup Tanks

Black Widow 5.10c PG

2 bolts (start in crack)

Beam Me Up Scottie 5.10a PG *

3 bolts (anchor)

Rollerskating with Aliens 5.9/5.9 PG*

(crack start) 2 bolts (anchor)

Full Count 5.8

2 bolts

Space Metal 5.10a *

5 bolts

Pyramid Tower

Go Ask Alice 5.10b/c

4 bolts 1 FP

Cactus Rustler 5.8

2 bolts (some gear needed) (no anchor)

Hand Grenade Corridor

Winter's Moon 5.11a*

Horseshoe 5.11c PG/R

4 bolts

Jump On It 5.10b

2 bolts (left route)

Trampolone 5.6

2 bolts (right route) 2nd bolt has no hanger

The Rumble Crags

Last Date (AKA Stop the Presses) 5.10c/d

3 bolts

Routes East of Hershey Kiss

A Nice Pair 5.10a/b PG*

3 bolts

Bright Moments 5.9*

2 bolts

Dissatisfaction Rock

The Moaning Man 5.11a

3 bolts (1 bolt on top)

Big Ass Boulder

Cool Move, Gritty Rock, Standard Procedure 5.10d 4 bolts (anchor on top)

The Greystone

Cows in the Shade 5.9 PG 2 bolts

Abacus 5.11d*

3 bolts

The Edge 5.10b*

2 bolts

Tooth Boulder

Diabetic Shock 5.10c*

3 bolts

Endangered Species Dome

Revenge of the Herds PG/R

4 bolts (some gear needed)

The Right to Arm Bears 5.11b PG/R

6 bolts

Zippy Rock

Don't 5.10a/b PG/R

Bolts (5/16 bolts in poor rock) Wide crack at start needs pro

Canilizo 5.10c *

4 bolts

The Moustache 5.10a PG*

2 bolts (gear needed at start)

Pinhead Boulder

Cat Paws 5.10b PG

3 bolts

Blue Moon 5.10b PG/R

Originally 2 bolts; maybe only 1 bolt left

Stirrup Rock

Fear of a Black Planet 5.10c PG *

6 bolts (anchor)

Seebolt 5.11b PG *

4 bolts

Freckle Face 5.11a/b PG/R

4 bolts (anchor)

Finger Bowl 5.12a**

4 bolts

Hai Karate Rock

Zen Goblins

5.10b/c * 2 bolts

Butterbags Buttress (Cottonwood Area)

Butterbags Buttress 5.7**

5 or 6 bolts (anchor) (1" piece at start optional ) Anchor on top

Babaloos 5.10-*

4 or 5 bolts , 1 FP

Love Bubbles 5.10c *

2 or 3 bolts, fixed pins, then some gear needed at top (no anchor)

Chiriaco Summit

Battle Buttress

Isandhlwana 5.10b **

7 bolts (anchor)

Zulu Dawn 5.10b/c **

7 bolts (anchor)

Battle of Blood 5.11b/c ***

5 bolts

On the War Path 5.11b***

6 bolts

Triple Face

.22 Magnum 5.10a

3 bolts

Morning Glory

Willie 5.9 PG

1 bolt

The Watchman

The Watchman 5.9+

3 bolt face (anchors)

Majumba

Majumba 5.10a*

4 bolts

Balloon Buttress

The Matriarch Rose 5.9 PG

4 bolts (anchor)

Shakin' Babies 5.10d*

3 bolts (anchor)

First Salute

Daytona Beach 5.7 PG/R

2 bolts

Utah Beach 5.7 PG

4 bolts

Face Facts 5.9

1 bolt

Stalingrad

Freebird 5.10c

3 bolts

Blitzcrag

The Xyphoid Process 5.7*

3 bolts

99% Boredom 5.9

1 bolt