Lead climbing outdoors, placing gear, is a lot different than following, top roping, or leading in the gym. Many factors need to be taken into consideration. Lots of things can happen while lead climbing, some of them very unpleasant indeed. Confidence level, quality of rock, how much you drank the night before, amount of sleep, emotional baggage: it all factors into the leaders psyche
5.9 in the gym ain't 5.9 outdoors. Maybe the rating in the guidebook (or on the website) is incorrect. Maybe it's a sandbag or for people over 6' tall. Also 5.9 face is different than 5.9 slab or crack, or chimney or off-width. On a freezing cold day with frozen fingers and numb feet, 5.9 can get very, very difficult. What if it's windy, or too hot, or getting dark?
Joshua Tree has some run out climbs too, and we all know a 5.9 move next to a bolt is way different than a 5.9 move 40' out. Maybe the protection is great on the climb, but you didn't bring enough stuff, or the right pieces, or you didn't bring any wide pro, or you used the desired piece early in the lead. Once you get to the top, do you have enough gear (or knowledge) to set a safe, bombproof anchor?
A 5.9 climb can get a lot harder if you get off route and on harder terrain. Climbs are more difficult if you missed key holds, use improper technique, over grip, or diddle around too long and get pumped.
Bugs can fly in your face, lizards and snakes and spiders can scare you on climbs, wasps, bees, mosquitoes, and ants can pester you.
Boyfriends, girlfriends, and gym pals can shout incorrect beta to you. Maybe you got on the wrong climb by mistake. Ever drop a crucial piece of gear, as you fumbled to get it in before you pump out? Damn, your shoe came untied, right at the crux!
Some people get nervous on the lead and don't lead as well with others watching. Some people can't lead well unless they have an audience. Some people put in less pro when there is an audience so their audience won't think they are "chicken-shit." People take dares, show off, try to prove something, or let their run-away egos take over. Lots of things can, and do happen on the lead.
Your boot can get stuck in a crack, sweat gets in your eyes, and it's also difficult to lead if you really have to go to the bathroom.
I believe these climbs, if done properly, can be relatively safe, fun ventures. Even on safe climbs, with excellent protection, on perfect days, with the perfect gear, things still can and do go wrong. An improperly placed cam in a perfect crack will fail, and dirt on a shoe will make you slip on easy terrain. People get hurt (or killed) on 5' falls, and survive 100' grounders. Lots can and will happen to the lead climber, but the rewards of lead climbing are what we climb for.
